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King_GH Extreme Veteran Date registered: Oct 2011 Location: London Vehicle(s): 95 G300 RHD Posts: 324 | Re: 1995 G320 Infrared Door Locks Inoperative AlanMcR - 6/21/2018 5:05 PM King_GH - 6/20/2018 3:39 PM I eventually fixed this issue. As usual it was the bad solder joint. I think it's got enough solder till the car is finally welcomed at the German mercedes museum one day :-)) So the IR is outstanding. I will try and change the battery first. The infra-red is certainly working, however it can't open the door. It was working fine until the door broke. A likely scenario is that the door lock mechanism has been getting stiffer over time. This raised the current required to run the motor and that helped to cook the solder joint. You have now fixed the joint, but the original problem (the lock mechanism) still needs attention. Alan, that makes sense. Is there a DIY page on softening up these lock mechanisms? Won't be a bad weekend task. | ||
#239463 - in reply to #239458 | |||
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AlanMcR Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: US, CA, Los Altos Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL Posts: 3500 | Re: 1995 G320 Infrared Door Locks Inoperative Getting to the door lock is a challenge. 1) take off the door skin 2) remove the door lock cover (plastic shell, inside the door). 3) play around with the mechanism in place to find out what doesn't move easily.
I would suggest not trying to get the mechanism out. The window, window mechanism and track have to come out first. | ||
#239464 - in reply to #239463 | |||
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gerryvz Extreme Veteran Date registered: Apr 2014 Location: Annapolis, MD Vehicle(s): 1994 G320, 1989 560SEC, 1994 E500 (W124) Posts: 336 | Re: 1995 G320 Infrared Door Locks Inoperative Following up on this issue, I finally replaced my Kiekert relay yesterday, and it solved the problem. The original occurrence of the locks not working back in June was a one-time thing, but it happened again (and didn't remedy itself about a month ago). I ordered a new Kiekert relay from MB and replaced it. For my truck, the Kiekert relay is indeed located in the relay board that is behind the fuse panel, under the glove box on the passenger side of my truck (1995 G320). It is held in by two screws and the electrical connector. Pulling the guts out of the original Kiekert relay (date-stamped with a 1994 year of manufacture), indeed there is a broken solder joint in the typical location as has been shown. I will reflow this solder joint and the others, and the original Kiekert should remain as a viable spare for the future. I paid $142.08 for the Kiekert relay (part number 009 545 19 32) from mboemparts, no tax and free shipping per the arrangement with my web site (enter 500EPROMO at checkout time for free shipping). Symptoms-wise, there was no issue at all with the green and red lights flashing (immobilizer working) when activated by the fob. I could also hear a slight "click" of the door lock knobs when I turned the key in the driver's door, or manually moved the driver's lock knob up and down. This told me that there was electrical power to the knobs, but no signal to actually make them go up and down. Thus, it pointed to the Kiekert relay, which controls this signal. For others, in the future, I would recommend removing and trying to re-flow the solder joints on the existing Kiekert unit rather than spending the $150 for a new one -- it seems that this can and does solve the problem as long as the "fix" is done carefully. Interesting and yet frustrating how predictable this problem is. One question -- which model year was the Kiekert unit used from and up to? I'm assuming from 1990 when the W463 debuted, but what is the last year(s) that it was used? Thanks to everyone for the help and great background and posts about this issue. Cheers, Gerry | ||
#240058 - in reply to #239372 | |||
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koly Elite Veteran Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Scottsdale, AZ USA Vehicle(s): 2000 G500 Posts: 823 | Re: 1995 G320 Infrared Door Locks Inoperative gerryvz - 11/12/2018 5:16 AM Following up on this issue, I finally replaced my Kiekert relay yesterday, and it solved the problem. The original occurrence of the locks not working back in June was a one-time thing, but it happened again (and didn't remedy itself about a month ago). I ordered a new Kiekert relay from MB and replaced it. For my truck, the Kiekert relay is indeed located in the relay board that is behind the fuse panel, under the glove box on the passenger side of my truck (1995 G320). It is held in by two screws and the electrical connector. Pulling the guts out of the original Kiekert relay (date-stamped with a 1994 year of manufacture), indeed there is a broken solder joint in the typical location as has been shown. I will reflow this solder joint and the others, and the original Kiekert should remain as a viable spare for the future. I paid $142.08 for the Kiekert relay (part number 009 545 19 32) from mboemparts, no tax and free shipping per the arrangement with my web site (enter 500EPROMO at checkout time for free shipping). Symptoms-wise, there was no issue at all with the green and red lights flashing (immobilizer working) when activated by the fob. I could also hear a slight "click" of the door lock knobs when I turned the key in the driver's door, or manually moved the driver's lock knob up and down. This told me that there was electrical power to the knobs, but no signal to actually make them go up and down. Thus, it pointed to the Kiekert relay, which controls this signal. For others, in the future, I would recommend removing and trying to re-flow the solder joints on the existing Kiekert unit rather than spending the $150 for a new one -- it seems that this can and does solve the problem as long as the "fix" is done carefully. Interesting and yet frustrating how predictable this problem is. One question -- which model year was the Kiekert unit used from and up to? I'm assuming from 1990 when the W463 debuted, but what is the last year(s) that it was used? Thanks to everyone for the help and great background and posts about this issue. Cheers, Gerry I'm getting ready check and see if a bad joint is what has caused my locks to work so intermittently I've just lived without my locks for a long time and am finally getting tired of it. For my 2000 G500, I'm led to believe the board/relay it's located in under the hood in the black box that contains the K40 relay, with the board located underneath - can anyone confirm or deny? Edited by koly 11/12/2018 12:43 PM | ||
#240060 - in reply to #240058 | |||
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paulunm Veteran Date registered: Jan 2015 Location: Los Angeles Vehicle(s): 2000 G500 Posts: 124 | Re: 1995 G320 Infrared Door Locks Inoperative Correct, the Kleikert is right below the K40. | ||
#240064 - in reply to #240060 | |||
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gerryvz Extreme Veteran Date registered: Apr 2014 Location: Annapolis, MD Vehicle(s): 1994 G320, 1989 560SEC, 1994 E500 (W124) Posts: 336 | Re: 1995 G320 Infrared Door Locks Inoperative koly - 11/12/2018 11:41 AM Any update on this -- did it fix your problem?I'm getting ready check and see if a bad joint is what has caused my locks to work so intermittently I've just lived without my locks for a long time and am finally getting tired of it. For my 2000 G500, I'm led to believe the board/relay it's located in under the hood in the black box that contains the K40 relay, with the board located underneath - can anyone confirm or deny? | ||
#240291 - in reply to #240060 | |||
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koly Elite Veteran Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Scottsdale, AZ USA Vehicle(s): 2000 G500 Posts: 823 | Re: 1995 G320 Infrared Door Locks Inoperative gerryvz - 12/30/2018 3:16 PM koly - 11/12/2018 11:41 AM Any update on this -- did it fix your problem?I'm getting ready check and see if a bad joint is what has caused my locks to work so intermittently I've just lived without my locks for a long time and am finally getting tired of it. For my 2000 G500, I'm led to believe the board/relay it's located in under the hood in the black box that contains the K40 relay, with the board located underneath - can anyone confirm or deny? I finally replaced the Kierkert relay with a new one. I tried soldering my one, but I'm a terrible solderer - after my attempt I plugged it back in and saw no change. I'm going to bring the old one to a small electronics shop to see if it's still repairable. After several years without locking doors, they're functioning again! Not perfectly, though. My front passenger door actuator isn't robust enough to unlock itself, so guessing that will need to be looked into. Also not getting all the proper lights flashing during lock/unlock procedure, and am hoping it's related to the actuator. | ||
#241223 - in reply to #240291 | |||
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