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petermerle Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Cape Town ( deep south ) Vehicle(s): W460 *1, W123 *2, W124 Posts: 1315 | RE: 1985 280 ge master clutch According to EPC the 280GE slave cyl is different to the 230/300 slave cylinder A0012951607 - only used on 460/461 280GE's A0002957607 - used on 230,240,300G's as well as transporters 309, 601, 602, 611, 667 Paid R150 ( approx $25 ) for A0002957607 in 2001 . Peter | ||
#24454 - in reply to #23454 | |||
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mike Regular Date registered: May 2006 Location: toronto, canada Vehicle(s): 1985 280 ge, 1978 bj40 landcruiser Posts: 79 | RE: 1985 280 ge master clutch GDog - 6/15/2006 5:16 PM If your existing cylinder is not leaking I would suggest using a power bleeder. That will sometimes clean out all the old crud that is fowling up the works. I thought I needed to rebuild mine, but tried bleeding it first. I had to use a little more pressure than what was called for. Mine now works the best it has since I bought the truck four years ago. You should fill out your profile, like Dutch suggested. I just had my slave cylinder rebuilt with the MB rebuild kit. At the same time I had a complete rebuild of the 5spd Getrag transmission. Prior to rebuilding the slave cylinder it was functioning fine ,however it would leak externally every now & then. My clutch pedal now ocaisionally becomes stuck in one spot on the return . By pump the pedal I can free it up again. My mechanic says the mastercylinder is weak and is causing this problem. I think the slave cylinder is sticking internally. What do you think? | ||
#24525 - in reply to #23503 | |||
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mike Regular Date registered: May 2006 Location: toronto, canada Vehicle(s): 1985 280 ge, 1978 bj40 landcruiser Posts: 79 | RE: 1985 280 ge master clutch petermerle - 6/18/2006 3:11 PM According to EPC the 280GE slave cyl is different to the 230/300 slave cylinder A0012951607 - only used on 460/461 280GE's A0002957607 - used on 230,240,300G's as well as transporters 309, 601, 602, 611, 667 Paid R150 ( approx $25 ) for A0002957607 in 2001 . Peter I have been told that the only difference between the two slave cylinders is the pin from the 280 will have to be reused with the 240 slave cylinder in order to function properly on the 280. | ||
#24526 - in reply to #24454 | |||
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DUTCH Administrator Doppelgänger Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: US, GA, Atlanta Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter Posts: 9963 | RE: 1985 280 ge master clutch mike - 6/18/2006 6:59 PM GDog - 6/15/2006 5:16 PM If your existing cylinder is not leaking I would suggest using a power bleeder. That will sometimes clean out all the old crud that is fowling up the works. I thought I needed to rebuild mine, but tried bleeding it first. I had to use a little more pressure than what was called for. Mine now works the best it has since I bought the truck four years ago. You should fill out your profile, like Dutch suggested. I just had my slave cylinder rebuilt with the MB rebuild kit. At the same time I had a complete rebuild of the 5spd Getrag transmission. Prior to rebuilding the slave cylinder it was functioning fine ,however it would leak externally every now & then. My clutch pedal now ocaisionally becomes stuck in one spot on the return . By pump the pedal I can free it up again. My mechanic says the mastercylinder is weak and is causing this problem. I think the slave cylinder is sticking internally. What do you think? It could also be the springs in your clutch plate, as they are what pushes the rod in the slave back into position. | ||
#24558 - in reply to #24525 | |||
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dai Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Oregon USA Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F Posts: 2110 | Re: 1985 280 ge master clutch I think that I wouldn't start replacing hard parts until the system was bled properly using pressure. If there is any air in the lines or in the various cylinders you will have exactly the symptoms you describe. The pedal will not return. This is the same with the brake system on early MB's. Air in the system and the pedal will not return all the way. This is the classic symptom. Air, even a tiny amount of air is highly compressable. The system must have all of the air removed to work correctly. I doubt the slave is sticking, as Dutch said, the force of the clutch cover springs is causing its return. If it isn't returning the slave rod it probably isn't working at all. The clutch springs exert a huge amount of force on the disk. I used a 240 D slave with my 5 speed and didn't use the rod from the old slave. They looked similar and the 240 D slave works without a problem. Measure them when you have them side by side and use the old rod if you are worried about it. My clutch works perfectly with the sedan part as is. The problem could be your master cylinder but from what you describe I suspect air in the line. If your clutch is disengaging when the pedal is depressed then the master cylinder is pushing fluid into the slave with enough power to disengage the clutch. Sounds like it is functioning but it isn't returning properly. I find it takes around a half a quart of brake fluid at least to properly bleed the clutch with a pressure bleeder. Even using a pressure bleeder I depress the pedal, open the bleed on the slave and close it before releasing the pedal. Often during this procedure the pedal will not return on its own until the air is all out. I do this to make the fluid do a one way trip and avoid any air being pulled into the system. I use a clear line into a clear plastic water bottle so I can see the fluid and the tiny bubbles moving through the tube. I keep it up until I don't see even the smallest bubble of air. It takes time. I like Castrol LMA Dot 4 for my brakes/clutch systems. Too bad you are across the continent, I'd be happy to help you bleed the thing. -Dai | ||
#24609 - in reply to #24352 | |||
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fourbyfourclub Extreme Veteran Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: New Jersey, USA Vehicle(s): 300G Posts: 302 | Re: 1985 280 ge master clutch Mercedes used 3 different types of SLAVE cylinder on G-Class from 1979 (W460) to present time (W461 WORKER) and only one MASTER clutch cylinder. Part number: 001 295 80 06 Rebuild kit is also available and cost TWICE cheaper that complete cylinder. This kit contains all parts except cylinder housing. I agree with DUTCH, member profile is very important if you need some help with a part number. It is a great idea to keep you VIN number in your profile. Mike! You can contact us directly and we'll be happy to help you with a part number. (W463MasterClutch.jpg) Attachments ---------------- W463MasterClutch.jpg (7KB - 14 downloads) | ||
#25322 - in reply to #23183 | |||
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Bruce Veteran Date registered: May 2006 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Vehicle(s): 230GE, 300TD, 200D Posts: 191 | Re: 1985 280 ge master clutch fourbyfourclub - 6/21/2006 3:14 AM Rebuild kit is also available and cost TWICE cheaper that complete cylinder. This kit contains all parts except cylinder housing. I was told that the clutch master cylinder repair kit does not include the return spring (about 1/2" x 3") which was broken in my cylinder. Is that true 4x4? Bruce | ||
#25455 - in reply to #25322 | |||
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EuroTruck Extreme Veteran Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Oakwood, Georgia - USA Vehicle(s): 2012 Audi A4 Avant S-Line, 2015 Ridley NOAH SL Posts: 518 | Re: 1985 280 ge master clutch Bruce - 6/21/2006 4:33 PM I was told that the clutch master cylinder repair kit does not include the return spring (about 1/2" x 3") which was broken in my cylinder. Is that true 4x4? Bruce
Bruce,
That is correct, no spring. Just the plunger and lock ring as shown in the photo above. If it were my cylinder being rebuilt, I would seriously consider sending it to someone like http://www.whitepost.com to have it resleeved with stainless steel. Then future pitting will be a non-issue. The ultimate decision about whether or not to rebuild should depend not only on the condition of the bore in the cylinder, but also on the condition of the reservoir and fittings. Rebuilding is a great way to save money if you first determine that the core is up to it from a longevity standpoint.
-Sean Philyaw | ||
#25484 - in reply to #25455 | |||
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Bruce Veteran Date registered: May 2006 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Vehicle(s): 230GE, 300TD, 200D Posts: 191 | Good to "see" you Sean! "That is correct, no spring. Just the plunger and lock ring as shown in the photo above" Sean, GLAD TO SEE YOU HERE!!!!!! Thanks for the confirmation. A couple years ago I needed just that spring. One of the members (on the "old" forum at the time) had one and was kind enough to help me. It was Mark from GA. Bruce | ||
#25490 - in reply to #25484 | |||
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