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M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?
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Posted 3/19/2022 2:19 AM
rhd280
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Date registered: Dec 2014
Location: New Zealand
Vehicle(s): 1982 280GE LWB RHD
Posts: 62
50
M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

WDB 46023327021627. !982 RHD 280GE LWB. 407,000 miles.

Back in 2003, my G-wagon motor gave a loud engine bang and gave up the ghost. Bearings shot, crank probably damaged, not worth repairing. I located an identical engine from an owner who had done a diesel swap - cheaper to buy his petrol motor than try to rebuild mine, so over the holiday I rigged up a block and tackle and swapped motors.

But I recall having difficulty with an external oil line that went somewhere deep into the engine. I just could not get the leverage to crank it down, even after heating a wrench and bending it. Ever since, the G has leaked oil. But given its horrible fuel mileage, I don't drive it enough to worry about it, just keep topping up.

Now it is getting serious enough that I really need to stop the leaking. The place where I take all my cars for warrant of fitness (our semi-annual safety inspection) let it pass, but said if I did not get the oil leak fixed, they would fail it next time.

Problem is I cannot remember where the hose was, and recently I fractured my back (fell 3 metres off a roof), so while I can crawl underneath, I would rather know where to look first. I did a brief under chassis tour, but did not find it.

Does anyone know where the external oil lines run in the M110 petrol motor?

And when I find the leak, can the nut be tightened to stop the leak, or does it have a compression nut requiring I purchase a new line? If the latter, I expect with a 40-year old vehicle this will entail going to ENZED and getting a custom hose made up.

Appreciate advice and if there is a shop manual drawing or photo, a copy.
#243487
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Posted 3/19/2022 6:54 PM
w.james
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Location: New Jersey
Vehicle(s): 84 280 GE 617A 5sp getrag
Posts: 239
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Re: M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

If I remember correctly, run under the intake manifold, it was a plastic connected to flanges, that connect to the motor. Old Plastic cracks when you touch it. You have to heat the new one to get it on to the flanges them pressure it on. Mine did not go with a fight when they go replaced because hit it with a wrench

Good luck with it
W
#243488 - in reply to #243487
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Posted 3/20/2022 5:54 PM
rhd280
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Date registered: Dec 2014
Location: New Zealand
Vehicle(s): 1982 280GE LWB RHD
Posts: 62
50
RE: M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

This drawing from the shop manual was posted by a member of clubwagon.com.  It answers the question... it is one of the two hoses going to the oil filter housing. Now I need to determine part number and if it can be tightened or if it is a compression nut that requires a new line.

 





(0-OilLines.jpg)



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Attachments 0-OilLines.jpg (157KB - 0 downloads)
#243489 - in reply to #243487
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Posted 3/22/2022 12:04 AM
Otiswesty
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Date registered: Jun 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Vehicle(s): 463.241, 461.213
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RE: M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

I had to replace number 566 which is the plastic crank case breather from the oil pan. That could also be a cause of your leak. I had my intake manifold off 15 months ago to go through my EFI and fuel system. It was a complicated job and a bit tricky. The oil lines are steel and in my case look tight and very stout.

Eric



(OilLines.jpg)



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#243496 - in reply to #243487
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Posted 3/22/2022 10:56 AM
oskar
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Date registered: Sep 2006
Location: Lyons, CO
Vehicle(s): 1981 280GE, 2002 G500, 280SE 4.5, Audi A4 1.8T
Posts: 708
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Re: M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

the oil lines: years ago euro-truck had a batch of them made. So expedition imports may still have them

Oskar
#243498 - in reply to #243487
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Posted 9/1/2022 6:01 AM
rhd280
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Date registered: Dec 2014
Location: New Zealand
Vehicle(s): 1982 280GE LWB RHD
Posts: 62
50
M110 Engine - How do I access the oil cooler line on top of the filter housing

I really need to get this oil leak on the top of the oil filter housing repaired.

I heated an open end wrench and bent it 90° and came in from the top but I could not get enough torque to cinch it so it would not leak.

Has anyone accessed it? It looks like I might be able to come in from the inner wheel well if I bend the sheet metal (and the crease looks like that has been done before). This morning I took it to a shop to put it on a hoist and come in from the bottom by the oil filter, but could not see how to get it from there.

Short of removing the intake manifold, does anyone have any ideas?

Or is there a page in a shop manual that might show how to replace the oil cooler line? I think it is the one with the 90° bend at the filter housing end.

Edited by rhd280 9/1/2022 6:09 AM




(ArrowOilLine.jpg)



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#243759 - in reply to #243487
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Posted 9/2/2022 6:42 AM
Inkblotz
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Georgia
Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo
Posts: 3184
2000
RE: M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

What about using a crows foot socket. Pick them up cheap off Amazon. You should be able to get plenty of torque.

Edited by Inkblotz 9/2/2022 6:47 AM




(crows foot.png)



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#243760 - in reply to #243487
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Posted 9/2/2022 2:54 PM
rhd280
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Date registered: Dec 2014
Location: New Zealand
Vehicle(s): 1982 280GE LWB RHD
Posts: 62
50
RE: M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

Inkblotz - 9/2/2022 11:42 PM

What about using a crows foot socket. Pick them up cheap off Amazon. You should be able to get plenty of torque.
I will try today with a 19mm brake line wrench that has a similar cut out. I'll try coming in from the side (jack car, remove wheel, bend steel inner mud guard). Main question is not getting grip on the nut, but how to get my hands in there short of removing the intake manifold (something reluctant to do give it is a 40-year old vehicle and the manifold probably has not been off for 30 years, if ever.

Edited by rhd280 9/2/2022 2:55 PM
#243762 - in reply to #243760
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Posted 9/5/2022 7:00 AM
rhd280
Regular




Date registered: Dec 2014
Location: New Zealand
Vehicle(s): 1982 280GE LWB RHD
Posts: 62
50
RE: M110 Engine - where is the external oil line?

So, here is the answer - sort of.

The question asked was the best way to access the oil lines without removing the intake manifold...

1) from below (on a lift, reaching around the oil filter)
2) from the side by bending back or cutting open the inner mud guard (aka wheel well / inner fender)
3) from the top, looking down while reaching under the intake manifold

Answer: from the top.

The most important tool is a really good light that you place below the intake manifold. And a foot stool (we used an old car battery) so you are high enough to look down. And thin gloves to not cut fingers.

The good news is, once we had this set up, we could see the oil sensor from the top.

And we could see the oil leak was coming from the oil sensor.

Here is a photo of the clean replacement showing it can be seen from the top:

Oil-Sensor.JPG


1) The screw can be removed from the top to disconnect the sensor wire.
2) Remove the windscreen washer bottle and set it aside.
3) Take a 24mm wrench and come in below the intake manifold, expect to bang your knuckles (It is possible it could be removed with a swivel 24mm socket from the top, but we did not try that).

We discovered the oil sensor was missing its compression gasket metal washer, so we replaced it with a new sensor that came with a new washer. No more leaks.

We also found it was possible to see one of the oil lines from the top as well:

OilLine.JPG


It is possible to access both oil lines from the top, but thankfully we did not have to do this:

1) There is a bracket in the way of the wrench. That has to be moved first.
2) Then you can get to the foremost nut before you can tighten the inner (aft) nut.
3) Reinstall and tighten the outer nut
4) Reinstall the bracket.

With a new or hardly used vehicle, removing the intake manifold is the way to provide the best access. But with a 40-year old vehicle that has seen its fair share of mud, salt and corrosion, things break that are best left alone. Coming from the top, under the manifold wasn't too bad, but if the oil lines needed to be tightened, there may have been another alternative: do some inner sheet metal surgery by cutting or bending the inner mudguard to open up side access. Thankfully, we did not need to try that approach.

Cost NZ $48 for a new sensor and one hour knuckle-busing labour.

Thanks to everyone for the images and advice.

Edited by rhd280 9/5/2022 2:52 PM




(Oil-Sensor.jpg)



(OilLine.JPG)



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Attachments OilLine.JPG (183KB - 0 downloads)
#243764 - in reply to #243487
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