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T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A
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Posted 6/12/2011 11:33 AM
mrdohc
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Location: Markham ON Canada
Vehicle(s): MR2 230SL TT 300GD FJ Cruiser M695 Camry
Posts: 63
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T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Hello: any body has experience with a T1 Transporter gearbox 711.116 transplant to a 617A W460 300GD?
#191148
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Posted 6/12/2011 11:42 AM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

I think I do.... Though I don't know what a T1 transporter is. I have an iron box 5-speed that came from a van in my G behind the 617A. Both in place about 80,000 miles now since I did the swap.

-Dave G.

PS though I converted my 280 GE, not a 300GD as you asked.

Edited by hipine 6/12/2011 11:43 AM
#191150 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/12/2011 11:44 AM
mrdohc
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Location: Markham ON Canada
Vehicle(s): MR2 230SL TT 300GD FJ Cruiser M695 Camry
Posts: 63
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Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Dave: is it a simple swap? I know I will need a short prop shaft, but other than that, what other parts will i need to make the swap?
#191151 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/12/2011 12:20 PM
clubgwagen.com
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: gwagenpreserve.com
Vehicle(s): 300GE Cabriolet
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Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

It works great... but due to dogleg first, you will probably want 5.33 - 6.18 diff gears so you can start off in 2nd gear.

You need to close up the speedo drive output, and alter shifter and linkage a bit, but nothing hard. It can use the getrag 5 speed driveshaft if you use gwagenpreserve.com motor mounts, or you can cut down a 4 spd cardan shaft as another option.

Dave, the T1 vans are the vans that become the sprinter, 601 series bodies... such as

207d, 307d etc.
#191152 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/12/2011 12:21 PM
clubgwagen.com
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Location: gwagenpreserve.com
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Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

see here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_TN
#191154 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/12/2011 3:40 PM
chris505



Date registered: May 2007
Location: San Francisco
Vehicle(s): '79 280E/'80 280GE/'00 G500
300
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Just a couple points to add:

T1 gearbox comes with 6 hole output flange, may need to change to 8 hole version depending on the year of your G.

Shifter mechanism from 5 speed 190E 2.3-16 AMG/Cosworth would be a good thing to find, otherwise if you modify the stock 4 speed shifter mechanism a bit you still have to lift the shift knob to select first AND reverse (reverse lockout).
(edit)
Having first "locked out " from the other forward gears may not be a bad thing considering you must almost be stopped to get into first gear without grinding (non synchronized first and reverse in this gearbox).

Edited by chris505 6/12/2011 3:44 PM
#191162 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/13/2011 11:14 AM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

I don't know the part numbers but there are two versions of this box. One with a 6:1 first gear and a 1:1 5th, and another with a 4.7:1 first and an overdrive 5th gear. Mike said something about wanting to change dif ratios due to the "dog leg first" but I can't for the life of me figure what the motion pattern of the floor shifter would have to do with gearing. Both boxes have first gear to the left and down, sort of below the reverse position. The one I'm using is the overdrive one and it's been really perfect for my needs with 4.9 diff gears and 235/85-16 tires. The one with the granny low gear is identical to fit. I'm sure you've worked out what kind of gearing and which box you want anyway, so which box you use isn't a big deal, the conversion is the same. As others mentioned there are some things to do.

I closed the speedometer output, changed the output flange, modified my shift rods, and changed the shifter mechanism and knob in the cab, in addtion to having a short prop shaft made. Exactly how you accomplish all of the above is up to you, there are lots of different ways to do it. If you like you can also convert the vent cap on the top of the shift linkage housing to one with an extended breather. I didn't do that.

Exactly how you go after all of the above, and what parts you need is pretty dependent on what transmisison is in the car now, and on how comfortable you are with things that are rigged up to get you by, vs done the factory way. Since you didn't mention any of the obvious things about changing from an auto box to manual I assume you at least have a manual in the truck. But even so, whether you have the 4 speed or the Getrag 5 speed can have some bearing on what you need to do. Not a lot, but some. The swap from an iron box 4-speed is pretty easy. The swap from the Getrag is a little more involved (you'll need a bell housing and different clutch slave cylinder for starters).

None of it is very difficult, but some things can be time consuming or costly depending on whether you want to make/modify/buy things.

-Dave G.
#191193 - in reply to #191151
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Posted 6/13/2011 11:23 AM
kashi123
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UK, Netherlands
Vehicle(s): Mercedes 300GD OM606A Pickup; Mercedes 300GD
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Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

hipine - 6/13/2011 11:14 AM

I don't know the part numbers but there are two versions of this box. One with a 6:1 first gear and a 1:1 5th, and another with a 4.7:1 first and an overdrive 5th gear.

-Dave G.


6.15:1 first gear is the 711.110 equivalent to the 711.116
4.70:1 first gear is the 711.113

I have the 711.110 with 34 inch tyres and a 617a and can report it works well.

Hope this helps

Regards

Richard
#191194 - in reply to #191193
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Posted 6/13/2011 12:19 PM
syncro
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Date registered: May 2007
Location: Orinda, CA
Vehicle(s): '84 280GE LWB > 300GD, '75 240D
Posts: 477
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Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

hipine - 6/13/2011 8:14 AM
Mike said something about wanting to change dif ratios due to the "dog leg first" but I can't for the life of me figure what the motion pattern of the floor shifter would have to do with gearing.


What mike is referring to is that the .116 box has a first of 6.1:1 and a second gear of about 3.1:1
The jump is ridiculous for normal driving though great off road if you don't need to accelerate out of 1st.
It was designed for starting in 2nd and using first for heavy loads or getting in stuck
#191196 - in reply to #191193
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Posted 6/13/2011 12:35 PM
mgrays
Regular


Date registered: Oct 2007
Location: UK, Scot, Aberdeen
Vehicle(s): 300GDSt 1988
Posts: 84
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RE: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Done it and trying to finish a write up on it... about 4-5 pages of A4 at least. Below is a rough bit of text on a 300GD SWB 1988 617 5 speed Getrag
Yes simple .. but a fair bit of details actually.

1. Pick your gearbox
There were 3 van gearboxes;
4 speed same as 460 G
5 speed high ratio = 4.7 first & overdrive 5th – later vans mostly and so LHS Bellhousing; best to replace Getrag/4 speed for road car
5 speed low ratio = “6.15 first & direct 5th -Granny box” –more common on vans and especially early vans; best for low speed rock crawling or big tyres and offroad.
711.113 civilian = 711.117 military = high ratio 5 speed 4.7 1st gear and overdrive top
van, models like : 210 , 209 , 208 , 210 , 307 , 309 , 310 , 407 , 408 , 409 , 410
reverse gear 2,750 = 4,078
1. 3,167 = 4,695
2. 1,619 = 2,401
3. 0,969 = 1,436
4 . 1,000 = 1,000
5. 0,543 = 0,806

711.110 civilian = 711.116 military = low ratio 5 speed 6.15 1st gear and direct top
461 329 = 290GD
461 401/402/405 = 250GD
461 450/452/456/458/459 = 250/290GD
408 215 = Unimog U100L
reverse gear 2,750 = 5,347
1. 3,167 = 6,150
2. 1,619 = 3,148
3. 0,897 = 1,743
4. 0,657 = 1,278
5. 1,000 = 1,000

2. Understand what a T1 is
Van = Mercedes T1 or TN or Bremen 1977-1995 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes_T_1
611.417 = 409D/410D with OM617 diesel 3.0l 5 cyl before they fit OM602 with LHS starter
602.487 = 309D/310D with OM617 diesel 3.0l 5 cyl before they fit OM602 with LHS starter
602.422 = 309D/310D with OM 617 engine and 5 spd 711.113 (but later ones have 602 engine with starter on the LHS so need a bellhousing to fit to a 617)

3. Find a Gearbox ... I had to make 1 good out of 2 bad as all UK ones have gone to Africa.. later ones are better syncro and run on SAE80 which is better oil (they have SAE80 cast into side of box). .. a fair bit more about the rebuild process but doable with a hydraulic puller.

4. Change the output flange
I stole mine off the Getrag so made a spacer but a 4 spd would probably go straight in?
The van has a different bolt pattern to the 460/461 so you need to change it.
Getrag 300GD is same length as Van output flange but the seal area is shorter. Easy option is to make spacer about 5.5mm (minimum) to 6.5mm (to make same) to 10mm (will just move sealing area out a bit) long to space it out.; Internal Diameter 29.2mm minimum (tight over splines) to 31.4mm (same as ID of flange); Outside Diameter 40mm minimum to 46mm maximum. You could not turn down flange as there is an undercut at end of seal area and it seems this area is at least ground and is certainly chrome plated on the vans Note early G’s had 90mm flanges but most are 100mm flanges. Alternatively 461 output flange = A 602 262 11 45 = 115 Euro.
Alternatively 460 output flange off a 4 speesd should fit.
You need a deep 12 point 30mm (?) socket to remove flange from Getrag and I had to turn the Draper one down as OD was too large. I had to make a Prop flange holding tool (used two of the holes and with a bit of luck had holes to match the two different flange patterns).

5. Gearbox mount
Remove van one and replace with mount off G. Move the rear gearbox crossmember back to match the new position when you remount it.

6. Clutch slave change as the old Getrag has mounting holes that are offset from centre line and has a different rod length. Threads are the same on the hose.

7. Release bearing on the clutch MB= A0002505115 whareas Getrag one is too thin (if you try the bellhousing on without gearbox you can check this; the yoke is in the wrong place/angle with the thin release bearing although a bodge with a longer rod on the slave would get it working. Note same pressure plate and disc will do but basically get a clutch for a 4 speed manual and it is all the same. I found my clutch and release bearing worked as fitted to Getrag but I think it has too much travel as you can get a grinding noise at bottom of pedal travel.

8. Change arms on gearbox; Front= should point downwards; the middle and rear levers point upwards.

9. Oil - 2.3 litres = Recommend SAE 80W85 synthetic gear oil. The newer gearboxes with steel syncro ringsrecommend this or SAE80 instead of the ATF, any friction reduction has to be good as I found it took 20 miles to get the gear oil up to temperature (any power loss/gain is obvious to a 300GD!!)

10. Bellhousing; need to match the engine. 300GD needs RH starter, 230GE,280GE have LH starter, newer 6 cyl 602 GD300 has LH starter. The bellhousing is removable and I had to buy my separately as all the van gearboxes had been behind 602 diesels not older 617 diesels.

11. Gearbox vents.
G has vent pipes that go up to behind engine for deep water wading. To make the gearbox to G spec you need to put 2 vents on and block the bellhousing oil drain. I had gearbox apart so did the shift mechanism off the gearbox but you could do it inplace with grease and care. So at the gearshift plate on gearbox prise off the plastic cap at the top. Then tap the top with an M14 (??) tap. Buy M14 Banjo fitting with bolt and washers and bolt on with hose pointing forwards. For bellhousing vent look at the top for the vent hole; get some 6mm steel pipe about 40mm long and drill out the vent hole so that it is an interference/driven fit. Then drill and tap the very bottom of the bellhousing at M8 and put a bolt in that is ground flush on the inside; this you fit when you want to be wading otherwise leave open to allow any oil to drain out of bellhousing (or drain at each service). Now use silicon instant gasket goop to fill the existing drain cast into the face of the bellhousing;. It is best to have buy a paper gasket for the bellhousing when your refit it to the car.

12. Speedo drive; Van has the speedo wiring connection in the gearbox , the G gearbox always has this connection at the transfer case . Buy a plug=. part A6029970020 for plugging the speedo drive on the gearbox

13. Propshaft Gearbox to Transfer box
Depends on your engine and output flange of gearbox.; measure on fitting to be sure.
For OM617 (300GD) and Getrag ouptput flange it measured 258mm gap so then it needs to close down to 255mm min length ( with a proper 461 or 4 speed flange it maybe longer) A 300GD 460 prop only closes to 305mm so is too short
I used an Auto 280GE propshaft. This is same for LWB and SWB (they move the back axle but engine/gearbox/transfer box/front axle all stay in the same place).= 236mm closed = A460.410.12.02 replaced by A 460 410 40 04 = 1040 Euro new, 935 recon. There is a 30mm approximate stroke so this prop would probably work with many engines.

14. Gearshift
The new shift has reverse opposite 1st instead of opposite 5th. This messes up the reverse light and reverse interlock plus gearknob. If you had an old 4 speed shift you could probably engineer it into a 5 speed; it has been done. Alternatives are buying a “Wolf”(461 for German army) at 600 Euros from ebay or getting a second hand 190 Cosworth shift which uses the same plastic base housing. I got a Cosworth shift. You then have to add 2 extra holes to bodyshell to mount it, cover the underneath as base is smaller (I used a bicycle inner tube cut and doubled), and cut the hard plastic spacer to allow for the different shapes.. When going into reverse the shift shaft will nearly hit the interior surround. So expect to buy a rebuild kit for the old shift .= A 201 260 19 39 = pretty common part 124/461/201 = 43 Euro. I was not happy with the shift then as 1st/rev was long, 2/3rd was nice but 4/5th was too long again. This is due to the a couple of things; you could buy 461 shift arm at gearbox for 4/5th and 461 1/rev gearshift lever at body .. I went cheapskate. So cut off the two outer levers at the gearshift, flipped them so the posts for the shift rods pointed outwards and then equalized 2/3 and 4/5 lengths (ie made 4/5 longer) plus made 1/rev a little longer. This gives even shift stroke at gearknob and pulls gearknob shaft away from the plastic trim Final bit I have yet to do is that the shift rod into the gearknob is too short by about 35mm so it is a bit more of a stretch. Might fit a 461 shaft as the rod is hard so poor to weld.

15. Reverse switch for the 461 one is longer (or I prototyped with plastic metal about 3mm longer to start before buy a new one.). A461 545 0006 reversing switch = special 461 5spd MB switch = 16 Euro

16. Gearknob for 461 with right shift pattern on top = A 124 267 12 10 = gearknob = 124/461= 20 Euro.

17. Shift rods. Wolf rods come up for 300 Euros. I cut half the van ends off the gearbox and half the car ends off the Getrag and then with some playing, bending etc created rods that fit. Note that you lock the gearshift with a 4mm or so rod/drill and then with shift arms at gearbox in neutral you make the rods fit; there is a fair bit of adjustment at the gearshift end if you get the welding wrong. M ake sure you fit the new type retaining clips (same both ends = 6 total) A 000 994 41 60 = 0.34 euro

18. Fit of Gearbox
Ensure clutch disc is centralized on flywheel
Tilt engine by small car jack at the front of sump with wood to spread load.
I have 31” wheels so a little higher but I could drag the gearbox under an unjacked car. Then I placed it on a full sized trolley jack when under car and used that to lift it into place. Have a screwdriver ready to turn flywheel to engage splines into clutch disc and mount bolts.
Engage and torque all bolts before you untilt the engine with front jack.
Fit propshaft last after you have sorted the gearlinkage issues.

So hope that helps?







Edited by mgrays 6/13/2011 12:38 PM
#191197 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/13/2011 11:59 PM
clubgwagen.com
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: gwagenpreserve.com
Vehicle(s): 300GE Cabriolet
Posts: 736
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Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

syncro - 6/13/2011 9:19 AM

hipine - 6/13/2011 8:14 AM
Mike said something about wanting to change dif ratios due to the "dog leg first" but I can't for the life of me figure what the motion pattern of the floor shifter would have to do with gearing.


What mike is referring to is that the .116 box has a first of 6.1:1 and a second gear of about 3.1:1
The jump is ridiculous for normal driving though great off road if you don't need to accelerate out of 1st.
It was designed for starting in 2nd and using first for heavy loads or getting in stuck



Exactly, thank you Syncro!

All these vans typically came with diffs that were taller than 5.xx:1 and they also have 27" tires!
So they all pretty much start out in 2nd gear with that gearbox.
#191241 - in reply to #191196
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Posted 6/14/2011 3:12 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

clubgwagen.com - 6/13/2011 9:59 PM

Exactly, thank you Syncro!

....


Ah right then, refering to the low first gear ratio and nothing to do with the "dogleg" gearshift pattern. You had me going for a minute there!

-Dave G.

Edited by hipine 6/14/2011 3:13 PM
#191269 - in reply to #191241
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Posted 6/14/2011 11:01 PM
clubgwagen.com
Elite Veteran




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: gwagenpreserve.com
Vehicle(s): 300GE Cabriolet
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Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Dave G, does your gearbox shift as smooth and fast from 1st to 2nd as it does from 2nd to 3rd?
Can you downshift from 2nd into 1st at more than 3 mph?

just asking curiously.....-mike
#191285 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/15/2011 12:25 AM
Fernando BR



Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: Brasil
Vehicle(s): G500/05 300GE/91 300GD/80
1000
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Mike mine is 711 117 , so i will tell my experience and wait to hear dave" s experience with this lovely tranny.

1- I use 80-90 SAE Castrol gear oil ( my tranny is not completely syncronized -military)

2- 1st to 2nd up shift - until 2000 rpm as fast from 2nd to 3rd , over 3000 rpm as fast as from 2nd to 3rd , the upshift from 2nd to 3rd at 2500 rpm needs double cluth and soft hand. Donst ask me why but it happens like that.

3- I can downshift to 1st at 10 km/h (or almost 10) - double cluth and soft touch on acelerator and soft hand.

4 - truck in neutral and cluth not depressed makes tranny made a trrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr sound

Frank B related the same trrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr , its normal. Also dont know why.
#191289 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/15/2011 1:14 AM
chris505



Date registered: May 2007
Location: San Francisco
Vehicle(s): '79 280E/'80 280GE/'00 G500
300
RE: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Trrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr sound is normal, the chattering sound in neutral is due to the "single mass" fly wheel, this solid fly wheel allows the individual pulses of each cylinder's combustion event to transmit directly into the transmission. Almost all modern cars that have pronounced combustion events have "dual mass" fly wheels, they employ rubber sandwiched between 2 pieces of metal, this rubber dampens the shock from the individual combustion events.

Smooth motors like V8 or strait 6 don't usually need/use the dual mass FW. Rough motors like 4 cylinders and diesels need the dual mass FW to keep neutral quiet.


#191291 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/15/2011 7:39 AM
mgrays
Regular


Date registered: Oct 2007
Location: UK, Scot, Aberdeen
Vehicle(s): 300GDSt 1988
Posts: 84
50
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Well compared to the Getrag .. the idle/neutral noise is unnoticeable but the 5 cyl is unbalanced and so a dual mass flywheel is the modern fix; they exist for 606 and other latter engines but if my VAG experiance is anything .. do not fit them as they are another rubber component that often breaks.

Shifts are fine but getting back into 1st on the move does take some care.. it is low enough that you really are nearly stopped before you want it again anyway; this is with the High ratio box.. the Granny box really will not need 1st. Van boxes do not have synchro on 1st/rev. I can see Synchro rings on the Getrag.. perhaps that was another point in it's favour.

Earlier non SAE80 boxes have brass synchro rings. At one point these were not suitable for use with synthetic oils but that is no longer true. I would put SAE80 synthetic in all these boxes now; the bearings are identical just synchro rings and one lay shaft difference.
#191299 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/15/2011 3:24 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

clubgwagen.com - 6/14/2011 9:01 PM

Dave G, does your gearbox shift as smooth and fast from 1st to 2nd as it does from 2nd to 3rd?
Can you downshift from 2nd into 1st at more than 3 mph?

just asking curiously.....-mike


I guess the answer to the first question would be "no", but I'm not sure of the root cause and the longer answer is more like this, for comparison purposes. Going from 1 to 2 when I'm sleepy in the morning I sometimes "beat the synchro" and feel a little "clack" as it goes into 2nd. I've never experienced that on a 2-3 shift that I can remember. So that's the basis for my "no" above. To put it in perspective though I probably make that 1-2 shift 10 times a day and I might get the "clack" once a month. I haven't checked the numbers, but it might be just due to a wider rev jump 1/2 than 2/3 and needing to wait for the motor revs to fall a little farther with that monster flywheel spinning.

The answer to the 2nd question is, "not without double declutching". Here you've touched on why I was going to correct Chris' post that said there's no 1st gear synchro. I haven't had time to look at the workshop manual I have for this box to verify the hardware, but based on the behavior you describe, and I experience, I believe there has to be a synchro in there. If there wasn't I'd get a GRIND when trying to go down to 1st. I never get a grind, only a synchro lockout if I haven't bumped the revs in the front end of the box. I don't know if this is a worn synchro, or just normal behavior, but my box has behaved exactly the same, no change, for 80,000 miles of use so I'm not sweating it. In some way I feel it makes me a better driver and I feel pretty puffed up when I get that shift right. But you'd probably consider it 2nd nature with the track time you have.

As you can see, I'll never be one to complain about "worn synchros". I don't think I should need them and if the box doesn't "snick" into place with each gear, it's my fault, not the box's. That's my opinion anyway.

I do get a GRIND if I'm sitting with the box in neutral, clutch not depressed, then push the clutch in and absentmindedly try to go for Reverse without a pause. This is a sign to me that there is no R synchro, but there is a 1 synchro because the two behave completely differently. But as I say, I haven't remembered to verify in the service manual diagrams.

Richard S. (kashi) has some experience with this box too and though he mostly lurks, he might be following this thread and may have more to add to my limited experience.

All the best,

-Dave G.
#191318 - in reply to #191285
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Posted 6/15/2011 3:29 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

chris505 - 6/14/2011 11:14 PM

Trrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr sound is normal, the chattering sound in neutral is due to the "single mass" fly wheel, .... Rough motors like 4 cylinders and diesels need the dual mass FW to keep neutral quiet.




Thanks for that Chris! I've never heard it explained that way, but it could make some sense. I don't remember the same noise from the 4 speed I used briefly before the 5, but that's more likely my bad memory or just not paying attention because I think the two boxes are very closely designed in any respect that would effect this noise. As I told Fernando off list a while ago though, my comfort level with it has been based on the fact it hasn't chaged a bit in 80k miles. If it was bad, I'd think it would have gotten worse. So whatever the explanation, I'm okay with it. Your explanation is one of the best I've heard though, so I'm going to go with it!

-Dave G.
#191319 - in reply to #191291
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Posted 6/15/2011 6:53 PM
Fernando BR



Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: Brasil
Vehicle(s): G500/05 300GE/91 300GD/80
1000
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

Life is nice , years of doubts and in one thread we have all answers....

Correction on my other post , my tranny dont like 1st to 2nd upshift at 2500 rpm..so double cluth and soft hand is the solution...

I love those iron boxes.
#191323 - in reply to #191148
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Posted 6/16/2011 6:51 AM
Loki Laufeyjarson



Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: 66°N, 19°W
Vehicle(s):
500
Re: T1 Transporter gearbox to W460 300GD 617A

I have used this van gearbox for number of years. I have the low geared version behind OM617. 4,88 diffs and 35" tires.
It shifts very smoothly, all upshifts are fast but it takes the 1st gear syncro a few moments to do its job at high revs and I often double-clutchto to save a few milliseconds and make things easyer.
The only way to make a grinding noise is by trying to engage R when moving forward...
I guess that individual experience is based on gearbox wear.

Gs are handicapped by far to high lowrange. This gearbox is a must if you intend to offroad your G without loosing usable highway gearing
#191342 - in reply to #191323
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