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Tjærand
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Oct 2006
Location: Nøtterøy, Norway
Vehicle(s): 1996 G320
Posts: 403
| Breather pipes on my automatic gearbox
I suspect the breather pipes on my automatic gearbox are clogged. I haven't rolled under my truck tonight as its rather muddy outside but I thought I'd ask in here so I can prepare. Is it possible to reach the breather pipe bolt and unplug it from under the truck?
Edited by Tjærand 10/18/2006 12:41 PM
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TWODOGS
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UK
Vehicle(s): Norwegian Army 240GD
Posts: 584
| Re: Breather pipes on my automatic gearbox
yes they run along the side of the sump
Twodogs |
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Tjærand
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Oct 2006
Location: Nøtterøy, Norway
Vehicle(s): 1996 G320
Posts: 403
| Re: Breather pipes on my automatic gearbox
That would be the cooling lines I think.
The breathers are the small J-shaped ones that exit in the engine room. They are mounted somewhere on top of the transmission housing, behind the converter house
Edited by Tjærand 10/18/2006 12:58 PM
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TWODOGS
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UK
Vehicle(s): Norwegian Army 240GD
Posts: 584
| RE: Breather pipes on my automatic gearbox
the item below i blagged from the other forum ,
In my 280GE case the breathers are run as follows;
Front and rear axle diffs - these are run up into the engine compartment where both tubes lead into a valve mounted inside the driver side shock tower. The valve is a float valve only allowing air past it...not water. It is a fantastic design and could theoretically be extended upward if so desired or as Dave suggests to the engine breather.
T-Case/Auto Transmission - these are extended into the engine compartment as well between the engine and the firewall. The PVC tubing from these components is attached to metal upside down "J" tubes. Again, they could be raised or extended as Dave suggests.
Engine/Valve Breather – This is run via a rubber tube into the intake pipe that goes over the engine.
Air Filter Canister – has a horn shaped intake which helps prevent water intake. You will also find a rubber water drain on the underside of the filter canister. The rubber can get hard and will always remain open, so it should be checked for us older G owners. A snorkel is in order for serious river crossings but still don’t forget that water drain. Its also not a bad idea to seal the canister with a little silicone.
Even with the above, your truck is not ready to be launched like the admirals flag ship. Other things to consider are;
- Spark plugs connections need to be sealed with die electric-grease
- Distributor needs to be sealed. Some distributors would need a breather…not sure this applies to the 280GE
- All electrical connections you can get to should be sealed with die-electric grease
- Not sure the electronic ignition is water tight sealed (mounted on the drivers side inside fender wall). Probably still should be sealed.
- Any moving part that holds grease or takes grease needs to be greased before and after your submarine adventure.
- All those electric components under the driver’s side dash above the wheel well will not like water. Time for a bilge pump?
Even after you think you have taken precautions, water will still find its way in to places you don’t want it. Be prepared for trail checks and repairs. There are methods to get remove water out of the engine, oil sumps, etc while on the trail. The 280 is more then ready to take water on where stock trucks could not venture but for anything more serious, pre-cautions should be taken.
In the spirit of Dave’s message…�More than you ever wanted to know�.
Mark Goldberg
1985 280GE LWB A/T
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
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TWODOGS
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UK
Vehicle(s): Norwegian Army 240GD
Posts: 584
| RE: Breather pipes on my automatic gearbox
sorry i mean thay are clipped to the sump of the autobox , you can get to them from below.
Twodogs |
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Tjærand
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Oct 2006
Location: Nøtterøy, Norway
Vehicle(s): 1996 G320
Posts: 403
| RE: Breather pipes on my automatic gearbox
Righty, pipes unclogged!
They are placed directly on top of the transmission housing, just where the converter house starts to slope upward. One hollow bolt, and one small diameter "pipe" sticking out a few cm.They were really easy to get to and I was able to lay on my back and hug the transmission with one hand working from each side. So if you havent hugged your transmission today, now you know it's easy.
Anyways, my problem was relating to ATF seeping out from the dipstick (thats one is bolted to the sump). It would sometimes go from seep to steady drip and after hard or long drives it would foam slightly. If I filled ATF, it would sometimes regurgitate and splash ATF on hot exhaust manifolds. The gearing would be sluggish and it would feel like the torque converter was "slipping" like a wet clutch and it would feel like the truck was sluggish, even for a GD. Not between shifts but in actual gear. I have only driven short distances since saturday and the oil is candy apple red so I think it's ok.
So, rolled under, fumbled and there was no breather! The hollow-bolt hole was plugged with a plastic cap... Removed cap, bolted on a hollow-bolt (need to attach the breather lines though), filled 2 liters ATF and took it for a testdrive. No more seepy foamy splashing and slipping and its soo much faster. Hopefylly that was the whole root of that slipping and slugging problem. |
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