You'll see when you get it apart, that bit is a little assembly.  A metal cup with rubber bonded to it on the one face and OD, a little metal disk acting like a one-way valve, and a spring to bias that disk closed.  There's nothing inside the MC acting on that part, it just butts against teh bottom (front as installed) surface of the MC bore.

Good luck!

-Dave G.

Greg,

I had to back-bleed the clutch on Brad Davis' SWB when he had it.  He was having trouble with the clutch after the car warmed up (quite a few years ago, don't remember specifics).  The best way to do it is with a little Mite-y-Vac unit with the hoses swapped around so it blows instead of sucks.  Also have someone up top if possible to draw fluid out of the reservoir top before it overflows while you're pushing fluid up into it from below.  You can do it a little at a time by yourself, but it's tedious.  Plus, when you're trying to flush air out, it's better to be able to establish and maintain a flow, rather than starts and stops which can allow air bubbles to"slide back" to high points in the system, rather than being carrierd along and out by the fluid flow.

I feel for you man.  The cold makes any job a hundred times worse.  I think insulating my garage and setting up some heat in there is high on my list of summer projects since I don't have much in line for the G (other than transmisison swap).

-Dave G.

Bummer dude.   Be careful if you end up trying to pull the tranny from underneath.  Have it strapped to a good floor (trolly) jack.  And do take Fernweh's advice on checking the flex line.  I'm not sure whether I'd rather have to replace the flex line or the trans, but with as tough as that thing is to get at, I'm going to replace mine with a teflon/stainless line when I go in to change the trans next spring.  Heck, I may take the flex line clear over the trans to the slave, or maybe even all the way to the master, just to make things easier.

-Dave G.

Not quite the same.

The thing Karl describes is that the line just plain expands under fluid pressure - meaning the force to expand the line is less than the force to actuate the TOB, so the line expands instead of TOB moving.

What you're describing happened to my sister's xk140 Jag.  The inner lining separates from the reinforcing braid of the the tubing and then wads up inside the tube so the force of the MC is enough to push fluid past the obstruction, but the spring force of the clutch isn't enough to push fluid BACK past the obstruction.

Slightly different things.  To check the one Karl talks about, all you have to do is eyeball the flex line from the outside while someone works the clutch pedal with the rest of the system is in place as normal.  The MC displaces about 2 tbsp of fluid to move the clutch, so if that volume is being taken in the hose, you'll see it expand.

Good luck buddy,

-Dave G.