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mb230s
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: SWFL
Vehicle(s): G-less for now, vintage MBs, FJ40
| RE: Help!
# 15 on the diagram - part # on the left pane. Should be easy to change in the field.
I would try Caliber Motors in LA for the best price. Most dealers have these in stock b/c of the recall campaign. If you are really in a jam I can overnight one out - but my dealer charges 300-400% more than Caliber for the pleasure of doing business with them.
Caliber's # is 800-252-6877 or 714-777-0400 if the 800 # doesn't work where you are. I bet they would overnight it, they are pretty good on service.
Edited by mb230s 5/4/2007 11:00 AM
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DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
| Caliber?
mb230s - 5/4/2007 10:59 AM
# 15 on the diagram - part # on the left pane. Should be easy to change in the field.
I would try Caliber Motors in LA for the best price.
Are you now getting better prices from Caliber as opposed to Duval? Or are you going by location in this case? |
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mb230s
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: SWFL
Vehicle(s): G-less for now, vintage MBs, FJ40
| Re: Help!
Location mostly since Harald needs the part in the Southwest. I've also noticed Duval is slower than Caliber. But I've been getting a lot of 190SL stuff lately - which takes time. The online website is very nice. Caliber needs one.
I don't know how Duval does it. I'm setup to buy directly from MB w/o a dealer/3rd party and Duval is still beating some of those prices.
Edited by mb230s 5/4/2007 11:29 AM
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W5YK
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Vehicle(s): 2002 G500, Unimog U2450,
Posts: 543
| RE: Help!
Here's a photo of the back of a G500 alternator (my spare one). You can't really see this when it's on the truck.
The entire black plastic piece contains the regulator, and can be replaced on it's own. That's all Merc did under the latest recall campaign. However, you have to remove the complete alternator first to get at it. It's not as difficult as it looks. The connection is made to the longer stud (B1+). The shorter one is not used (B2+). There is a separate 2-pole connector for the sensor.
The Merc part number on the latest regulator (not the one in the photo) is A 463 150 0150
If there is a Bosch dealer near you, the following numbers are marked on the regulator:
Bosch BR14-H
E 00M 145 340
Bosch 150
0 124 615 020
NCB2 14V 90-150A
The above numbers are on the one that was replaced a few weeks ago under the recall.
You have to remove the alternator to read the numbers.
The Merc price for a spare alternator was about $800 or something ridiculous like that, so I bought my spare from Bosch for $200. It is marked:
BR14-M0
E 00M 145 331
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DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
| Re: Help!
mb230s - 5/4/2007 11:28 AM
I don't know how Duval does it. I'm setup to buy directly from MB w/o a dealer/3rd party and Duval is still beating some of those prices.
My local dealer, who gives me pretty good prices, told me that Duval's price on oil filters for my ML were priced below cost. |
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GwagenLover
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Winston Salem, NC USA 27104
Vehicle(s): 2016 G550 & 2016 GLE350
Posts: 473
| RE: Help!
Harald,
My 02 did the same thing that you are experiencing. There is definitely a recall on the alternator.
I looked up my repair invoice and here is the mechanics Statement:
"39556 NEC. To Check for codes in SDS Running short test, found that had code in ICM for low or undervoltage current code,NEC. To check in ME for Battery voltage, found that was 11.3 volts running. When starting went to 13.9 volts then dropped down to as low as 11.2 volts NEC. Replaced Voltage Regulator. Cecked and cleared codes after repair. OK Total Cost: N/C
So it looks like you have hit the nail on the head, you just need that regulator fixed. |
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G4Garret
Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oak Ridge - Knoxville - Windrock Tennessee
Vehicle(s): 2000 G500, U1100, SLK350, LR 101, WC-63 6x6
Posts: 243
| RE: Help!
I believe I can order parts direct through Bosch warehouse in the USA. I have done it before for rare Unimog parts and had them overnight. Don't know possibilities on getting them to Mexico though.
Sounds like you got the diagnosis under control.
For reference, Typcial Lead-Acid Battery voltages:
Open-circuit (disconnected from any load) at full charge: 12.6 - 12.8 V
Open-circuit at full discharge (battery drained): 11.0 - 12.0 V
Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
Typical charging: 14.2 - 14.5 V
Once fully charged, should drop to a 13.4-13.8 volt maintenance charge. Only some Automotive systems do this however. My MY2000 G500 appears to. All voltages are at 20C, and must be be adjusted for temperature changes.
I imagine you realize this, but for goodness sakes, whatever you do, please don't try and short the two battery poles with a wrench with the caps off, or on, or anytime. You will have a high probably of a hydrogen explosion. I have done that very thing while offroad, accidentally, and it is no fun at all, especially when there is nothing but a pool of nasty stinky scummy insect-ridden sludge water on the side of the trail to crawl over and stick your face into - which of course at the moment will be heaven on earth... The eye damage and deafness might be aggravating for a while, but then on the other hand it does temporarily prevent one from witnessing the truck dissolving away as the concentrated sulfuric acid returns to a neutral state. Of course no more worry about the original battery problem.
I know generic vehicle electrical systems diagnosis pretty well, including some alternator repair, but unfortunately not the G500 alternator.
Let me know if I can be of help.
Good Luck.
Garret
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amzimmy
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: South Africa/Italy
Vehicle(s): GD300 1981, Alfa GT 3,2 V6, Alfa Brera Q4 3,2 V6.
Posts: 850
| RE: Help!
Jonathan Joseph - 5/3/2007 3:16 PM
By the way no offense Amzimmy but deliberately shorting a battery could be extremely dangerous. A box of acid and explosive gases? Not something you want to piss off.
Jonathan
No offense taken Jonathan, if you read my message correctly, I mentioned that "IF the battery is low on charge, take out the battery from the vehicle and shorten the battery for a few seconds" I certainly would not short a fully laden battery! ...... this is the only way that one can test a battery if it is faulty......in the case one hasn't a Volt-meter in hand.
However, the first message from Herald did not specify whether he had any instrument or not, and I assumed he did not have the proper instruments .... otherwise, surely, he would have checked!   .
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petermerle
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town ( deep south )
Vehicle(s): W460 *1, W123 *2, W124
Posts: 1315
| Re: Help!
Michael ,
Modern diesels Post OM617's will need electricity to run.
Peter |
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4x4abc
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico
Vehicle(s): 02 G500
| RE: Help!
thanks to everyone here for help and advice offered!
I have a new starter on its way (thank you Richard!) - I'll keep you posted how things turn out.
Back to my construction site: http://www.baja101.com/scholle/indexxe.html
Of course all board members are always welcome to stop by for a good cool cerveza - the guest room is yours as well. |
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B280
Member
Date registered: Jun 2006
Location: Vancouver,B.C.
Vehicle(s): 1986 280ge
Posts: 40
| RE: Help!
Harald,
It looks like you are going to have an unbelievable home when your done. I love to see when people are able to make their dreams a reality. All I have to do is organize my family, take a very long drive, and I'll be having a beer in your casa.
Cheers,
Biski. |
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KERR
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| Re: Help!
when mine did that they said it was voltage regulator, there is a recall on them. Be carefull though, if the battery gets to low the car will not shift out of first gear. I drove mine for a few days with the message blinking, then all the sudden it would not shift out of first gear no matter what you did or how many RPM's you turned. It was a long slow ride until i found a place to stop so it could be towed in...
Thats some nice stuff your building. what are the final plans, I mean are you going to live there fulltime, or its it a vacation home?
I would have liked to see the looks on there faces when you crossed the river with a jeep and a trailer!
http://www.baja101.com/las-puertas/img/travel/water.jpg
Edited by KERR 5/8/2007 3:35 PM
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4x4abc
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico
Vehicle(s): 02 G500
| Re: Help!
yup, when I passed them, they looked at me like I was crazy - especially with an 26 ft trailer loaded with my TJ. But it was an easy unchallenging drive. Low range, slow speed, all diff locks on. After I went through almost all followed. Some got stuck because they did not stick to the center (white pickup on the right of last image)
water story here: http://www.baja101.com/las-puertas/weg-e.html
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Adoni
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Vehicle(s): '00 G500, '15 C300 4Matic, '06 L322 G4
Posts: 1283
| Re: Help!
Harald, do you ever go sea kayaking to some of those beaches nearby? |
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4x4abc
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico
Vehicle(s): 02 G500
| Re: Help!
Adoni,
sea cayaking? I would love to sometime later this year. I have been building 24/7 since October. Now I can see some light.
Also, as an update: got a new alternator shipped thanks to some incredible help by one of the board members. This forum rocks!
Couldn't find the time to drop the thing in. With almost 100F every day my TJ was semi pleasant for short erands (G500 with
windows up and the AC going is still better).
Now everything is back together and almost ready to drive.
See http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php?tid=7517&pos... |
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