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hot fuse panel?
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Posted 5/29/2007 11:59 PM
jcaine

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
hot fuse panel?

I just installed a veg system that involves 3 separate new circuits... that is I hooked 3 new hot wires (2 heaters and a fuel pump) to the fuse panel... I was feeling around under there tonight to make sure evreything was tight and the some of the fuse tabs were really hot... not the ones I was connected to but some of the others...

my fuse panel is under the driver's side dash and is 2 rows of the old type fuses... the bus bar (the current) comes from the bottom... I hooked to those bottom tabs which of course means my wires were NOT attached to fused current so I installed in-line fuses on each wire...

again my circuits were not hot but some others were...

long way of asking IS THIS NORMAL?
#76284
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Posted 5/30/2007 12:08 AM
BenzDieselTuner

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
Re: hot fuse panel?

i noticed this on my 123 one time in oklahoma during winter, when i had to check the fuses, they were warm, when they should have been ice cold......
#76287 - in reply to #76284
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Posted 5/30/2007 12:17 AM
jcaine

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: hot fuse panel?

just went out and futsed with it a little... seems like the head lights... when the switch (lights) is on 3 of the tabs get pretty hot... too hot to keep your finger on... I guess the current being drawn would make a little heat but is it supposed to get that hot?

I'm nervous because I just had an electric golf cart get hot and burst into flames... scary.
#76290 - in reply to #76284
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Posted 5/30/2007 12:31 AM
Braingears
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: St Petersburg, FL
Vehicle(s): G320 & ML320
Posts: 1450
1000
Re: hot fuse panel?

As long as you do not surpass the total amperage for the main leads that supply power to the panels (and that you used the proper gauge wire for the new accessories), you should be fine. The fact that they are warm (or even hot) does not mean that you've blown the actual fuses, they are simply near their rated capacity. If they use any more current than what they are allotted, they will actually get hot enough to blow the fuse (which is exactly what they are supposed to do).
The fuse filament creates resistance. The more current that runs through the filament, the hotter it gets, until it's hot enough to melt the filament resulting in a "blown" fuse.
#76292 - in reply to #76284
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Posted 5/30/2007 5:30 AM
Bill K

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
Re: hot fuse panel?

Hi, It might not hurt to check that you have the right amp fuse in each slot.
#76314 - in reply to #76292
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Posted 5/30/2007 6:50 AM
Inkblotz
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Georgia
Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo
Posts: 3186
2000
RE: hot fuse panel?

Additionally check your alternator. The early diesels because of so few electrical accessories only put out 55 amps. The newer ones that had to carry AC, electric windows, etc. used 65 & 70 Amp units. Don't know if the fuses will get hot because of this but in order to run those veg heaters it takes a good bit of power and may be putting a strain on your alternator.

Mark
#76324 - in reply to #76284
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Posted 5/30/2007 11:16 AM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: hot fuse panel?

Maybe a couple different issues here.

1- Don't add stuff to existing circuits.  The ones that are there are designed and properly fused to take the loads that are designed into the truck (some only margially so).  If you need to add circuits, install a secondary fuse panel.  The ones you can buy from the auto parts stores are cheap, reliable, and use the blade type fuses that are a lot more reliable than the bullet fuses the factory uses.  If you need to have a panel that gets IGN power, not straight battery, then wire a relay into the IGN circuit - the radio circuit is a nice one to use as it usually doesn't draw much power - that adds only milli-amps of current draw to the existing circuit to switch battery power to the aux panel when IGN is on.  Make sure the relay you use is rated for at least the total load of fuses you'll put in that aux panel.

2- It wouldn't surprise me if the headlights alone are heating up the fuse panel (and other things).  This is why I stated 1 above first.  I always recommend older Gs especially convert to a headlamp relay system, regardless of whether they want to fit up-rated bulbs or not.  Daniel Stern gives a good description here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html  and easy to wire kits are available here: http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=PPF30815/302.0 In my opinion, although the $ sounds like a lot, an easy to install, properly designed and rated system like the one from Painless is worth the money 10 times over in the amount of future pain it will save you.  If you haven't already had to replace your multi-function turn signal stalk and/or headlight switch, this kit may even save you the hundreds of dollars involved in those repairs.  Yes, you can put together a relay system for less money, but if you try to put together one as good as the Painless one, with high quality water sealed relays and connections, the proper gauge wires everywhere, etc, you won't save $20.  That said, the only thing I wish Painless had done differently was I wish they'd used full length tinned marine grade wire in the harness.  If they'd done that, they'd have it all.  As it is, I haven't found any corrosion in the wiring of any of the Painless systems I've used on the one or two occaisions I've had to open them up, so any difference may not be visible for 20-30 years anyway.

If you go to CGW Gtech, my article on headlight switch repair shows some of the long term effects of the factory designed headlight wiring.

-Dave G.

#76353 - in reply to #76284
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Posted 5/30/2007 12:00 PM
jcaine

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
RE: hot fuse panel?

Thanks guys... much appreciated.
#76361 - in reply to #76284
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