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dai
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
Posts: 2110
| RE: Radius Arms
bwillie - 6/13/2007 2:36 PM
I am using the heims so when the axle articulates it has more movement and will not bind as it does with the bushings. With the set up that I am doing it will also make the arms longer and allow me to mount the arms lower with new brackets so I can get me pinion and caster closer to stock.
There is a method to my madness.
Are you using the blue arms in the previous post? Could you post an image or two of the setup. I had some offset bushings made to try to solve my problem but your idea has me thinking...
Does the Heim end drop below the existing pivot and is it rigid? What mod is required at the frame end?
With my spring setup on the SWB GD my caster is at 0 making the pinion point up slightly. I want to drop it down and regain caster.
-Dai |
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hipine
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
| Re: Radius Arms
AlanMcR - 6/12/2007 4:38 PM petermerle - 6/12/2007 1:31 PM LWb and SWb long and short arms are the same. PEter So it is the axle that is tilted then? Otherwise it seems that the drive shaft angles would cause problems. Not following you, Alan..... The pumpkin flange needs to be parallel to the transfer case flange regardless of how far away it is from the t-case. Axles and radius arms are all the same whether SWB or LWB. The only thing that goofs up the flange angle is a crazy lift. -Dave G. |
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hipine
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
| RE: Radius Arms
bwillie - 6/13/2007 3:36 PM I am using the heims so when the axle articulates it has more movement and will not bind as it does with the bushings..... What are you doing at the axle end? Sounds like using factory bushings. If so you won't get much more articulatoin at all. More DROOP, yes as long as both sides move together, but articulation is limited by the axle end of the radius arms more so than the chassis end. We played with it some on G-zilla by loosening the chassis mounts to allow more flex there. Not a lot of gain without destroying the axle end bushings. All rubber bushings act as both springs and dampers to force moving parts back to centered positions. Heims do neither. Some times that's the goal, but sometimes there are unintended consequences. I know you know what you're doing, just trying to keep others aware. In my opinion, the way to do nice articulation with solid radius arms is to follow the lead of the Bronco guys and go with one "hinged" radius arm. I worked with Quinn on the concept used on his Bronco as well as an arm that allows a choice of caster settings depending on lift. See this link: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredvehicles/4_wheel_1971_ford_bronco/ And from my days doing the FAQ at D-90.com.... http://www.d-90.com/faq/Suspension/SusLinks.html#Radius Have fun! -Dave G. |
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bwillie
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| RE: Radius Arms
I am using the same bushings at the axle end as the stock. I agree there will not be huge gains but this is on my daily driver so I did not want the road manners that I have with the tree link on the '79. I am just using the arms from the '79 so I do not have as much down time. I do not even want to know what I would run into with the ESP with a three link.
Due to the arms being longer there will be some gain in articualtion as well as the heims that I am using have 42 degrees of angle play. This should release some binding when the axle articulates due to the pan hard arm having the tendency to pull the axle to one side.
I am removing the the mount at the frame and locating it down to where the caster is correct. It will not be like the blue ones in the prevoius post. I have only cut the ends off and pressed out the pushings. I will have them welded/sleeved, etc. by the end of the weekend so I will make sure to post picks. As well as the the frame mount the following weekend. |
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4x4abc
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico
Vehicle(s): 02 G500
| RE: Radius Arms
I can see Heim joints on the frame on a dedicated trail vehicle - but on a daily driver I would not want Heim joints in that position. You loose all the cushioning and dampening of the rubber mounts. Any lateral hit and the resonancing that goes with it will be felt undampened inside. |
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kerry460
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: tasmania australia
Vehicle(s): 1984 300GD LWB WAGEN
Posts: 611
| RE: Radius Arms
G,,day heim joints ,rose joints , spherical bearings , if as you are using for suspension , years ago ,rally days ,the best were nippon miniature bearing company. teflon joint dearer than anything else , but lasted much longer than anything else . much cheaper in the long run .
also much quiter and steering geometry stays more accurate,
cheers kerry. |
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