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Rotzler rebuild
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Posted 9/12/2010 6:42 PM
DUTCH
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Columbia River Gorge

jeremyw - 9/12/2010 6:18 PM

PS--You were? And you didn't meet up with some of us G-heads?
The Gorge is short for Gorgeous, no? ;-)


The Gorge is Ausgezeichnet! That viewpoint where you can climb and see five (5) snow covered peaks was especially cool! We went up as far as the dam at Cascades. Then turned around and headed back to Joint Base Lewis McChord.

I was not driving the G, and we were under a very tight schedule. I can guarantee that no grass grew under our wheels.
#177380 - in reply to #177379
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Posted 9/12/2010 6:49 PM
jeremyw
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

G4Garret - 3/19/2010 7:53 PM

I finally went out and took some pictures of my Land Rover's Ramsey winch, and the Rotlzer pictured in Dutch's photos sure looks like the Ramsey motor, worm and reduction assembly. This leads me to believe that if it is not made by Ramsey, then it's a licensed copy.

Here is a pic from the underside of mine. I couldn't get the camera far enough away to get the whole assembly in the picture. Keeping in mind that the Rotzler is smounted inverted from normal, so the drain, breather and motor terminals are reversed.



And here is the Rotzler





And the Ramsey from the top side. You can see my home-made solenoid box on the left.





Do you have a model number on your Ramsey Garret?

Do you have a connection/plug box like our Rotzler's do?

#177381 - in reply to #168269
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Posted 9/12/2010 6:50 PM
bram_r
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RE: One More Photo

jeremyw - 9/13/2010 12:05 AM

DUTCH - 7/4/2010 5:03 PM

Another in higher resolution. I have more photos, if you want them. Just let me know.


I too have a Rotzler (was factory on my '80 300GD..thanks to Bram and Dutch and Steve@Eurotruck so far for info, esp Bram and Dutch here) but have a few questions;

Being new to winches, I'm having a heck of a time understanding the measurements on my Rotzler plate.

Sorry for the newb questions;
#1 The 10/11/12.5/15 measurements...is that with the black ball lever pulled out one, two, three or four "positions?"
#2 The KN(show kN in the above pic) measurement...I was thinking that was knots but 15knots = 25.32ft/sec which is WAY too fast for a winch from what I've seen. What what does KN refer to here?
#3 I translated the 7mm "wire" dia, 25m lenth, but what does the 2060N/mm^2(that's a pressure measurement) and 45KN calculate least breach power[rechn Mindestbruchkraft] refer to?
#4 What does the "6x19+1SES" style[machart] mean?

>


PS--I've heard the Rotzler ER1500's are slow, but reliable. Since my setup has the positive lead cut from the connection plug assembly and no controller, it'll cost ~$1300 to get these from Rotzler...and I don't even know if my winch will actually work then or if it's just been a showpiece on the front. Is anyone using these in real world situations? How does it perform vs your standard Warn XD9000i(which I could buy new for the price of the connection plug/wires and controller!)?? TIA!



to answer your questions:
1. the 4 dots represent how many windings of wire are on the drum. Just mechanics, torque = force x leverage. With 4 windings, the leverage is greater, thus force smaller. You can pull 15kN with one winding.
2. kN means kilo-Newton (1000 Newton). Metric way of saying how much force the winch can pull. With an online calculator you can translate the kN to pounds.
3. The N/mm^2 stands for the elastic modulus, see for some background http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastic_modulus or do some googling if you interested
4. I don't know myself either.

Regarding your last question.
From what I've heard the Rotzler are indeed a bit slow. And over 20 years of winch development, I'm sure a new winch from one of the known manufacturers or even cheap Chinese stuff, will pull more and faster than the Rotzler.
It is usable however and it is part of the original look of the G, fits really well.
Too bad you don't have the controller. As you might have seen, the control box is a complete sealed unit, so installing a new connector plug and a universal winch connector may not be so simple.
If I were you, I'd see if I can order the electrical plug as a seperate part at Rotzler and then connect an universal winch controller to it. Or find another connector somewhere that fits in the control box. Good luck.
#177382 - in reply to #177374
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Posted 9/12/2010 7:43 PM
jeremyw
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RE: One More Photo

bram_r - 9/12/2010 3:50 PM

jeremyw - 9/13/2010 12:05 AM

DUTCH - 7/4/2010 5:03 PM

Another in higher resolution. I have more photos, if you want them. Just let me know.


I too have a Rotzler (was factory on my '80 300GD..thanks to Bram and Dutch and Steve@Eurotruck so far for info, esp Bram and Dutch here) but have a few questions;

Being new to winches, I'm having a heck of a time understanding the measurements on my Rotzler plate.

Sorry for the newb questions;
#1 The 10/11/12.5/15 measurements...is that with the black ball lever pulled out one, two, three or four "positions?"
#2 The KN(show kN in the above pic) measurement...I was thinking that was knots but 15knots = 25.32ft/sec which is WAY too fast for a winch from what I've seen. What what does KN refer to here?
#3 I translated the 7mm "wire" dia, 25m lenth, but what does the 2060N/mm^2(that's a pressure measurement) and 45KN calculate least breach power[rechn Mindestbruchkraft] refer to?
#4 What does the "6x19+1SES" style[machart] mean?

>


PS--I've heard the Rotzler ER1500's are slow, but reliable. Since my setup has the positive lead cut from the connection plug assembly and no controller, it'll cost ~$1300 to get these from Rotzler...and I don't even know if my winch will actually work then or if it's just been a showpiece on the front. Is anyone using these in real world situations? How does it perform vs your standard Warn XD9000i(which I could buy new for the price of the connection plug/wires and controller!)?? TIA!



to answer your questions:
1. the 4 dots represent how many windings of wire are on the drum. Just mechanics, torque = force x leverage. With 4 windings, the leverage is greater, thus force smaller. You can pull 15kN with one winding.
2. kN means kilo-Newton (1000 Newton). Metric way of saying how much force the winch can pull. With an online calculator you can translate the kN to pounds.
3. The N/mm^2 stands for the elastic modulus, see for some background http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastic_modulus or do some googling if you interested
4. I don't know myself either.

Regarding your last question.
From what I've heard the Rotzler are indeed a bit slow. And over 20 years of winch development, I'm sure a new winch from one of the known manufacturers or even cheap Chinese stuff, will pull more and faster than the Rotzler.
It is usable however and it is part of the original look of the G, fits really well.
Too bad you don't have the controller. As you might have seen, the control box is a complete sealed unit, so installing a new connector plug and a universal winch connector may not be so simple.
If I were you, I'd see if I can order the electrical plug as a seperate part at Rotzler and then connect an universal winch controller to it. Or find another connector somewhere that fits in the control box. Good luck.


Thanks again Bram.
#1. Ok. I'm still not 100% clear so I'll email you.
#2 I found 10 kilonewton = 2248.0894387 pound-force(pound?). So I'm still in the dark(sorry!) as that isn't much mass.
#3 Wow, way over my head!

From the Warn XD9000i specs FYI;
http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/XD9000i.shtml

PS--I fully agree with the Rotzler being part of the original look..very rare piece. I just hope it winches decently when needed.

Edited by jeremyw 9/12/2010 7:57 PM
#177385 - in reply to #177382
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Posted 9/13/2010 9:44 AM
NorthseaRoughneck
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Your Rotzler plate explained

Jeremyw,

#1] Typically, a winch it's maximum rated line pull is quoted with the first layer of wire rope on the winch drum. With every layer of wire rope spooled onto the winch drum your winch becomes less powerful. As a general rule of thumb; for each layer of wire rope on the drum you should deduct 10% off the rated line pull. The figures on your winch plate don't exactly match this 10% rule of thumb but this is where it comes from and as Bram_r stated it all has to do with pretty simple mechanics ... torque = length of the lever arm x force applied.

#2] 1 kN = 224.808943 lbf so 15 kN = 15 x 224.808943 which equals 3372.134146 lbf. That may be, as you've stated, not so much but still sufficient to help you out of trouble. Remember that there is such a thing as "double line" technique which will double your line pull but halve your winching speed by making use of a snatch block. Bear in mind that there's approximately 10% friction loss for every snatch block in use.

#3] The 2060 N/mm^2 refers to the minimum required steel wire rope grade. The term "Grade" is used to designate the strength of the wire rope. Plow steel- ,improved plow steel- and extra improved plow steel wire rope are commonly known grades. Tensile strength (resistance to lengthwise stress) ranges from 220.000 to 260.000 psi for plow steel-, 260.000 to 280.000 psi for improved plow steel- and 280.000 to 310.000 psi for extra improved plow steel wire rope. This means that the minimum required steel wire rope strength grade for your Rotzler winch falls into the EIPS wire rope category (2060 N/mm^2 = 298777,752428 psi).

The 45 KN refers to the minimum breaking load required for the steel wire rope in use. In other words, the steel wire rope should be able to withstand at least 45 KN (10116,402439 lbf) of pulling force before it breaks.

#4] The design of the cable, 6x19+1SES nowadays would be referred to as 6x19S+IWRC. A steel wire rope is build up out of wires, strands and a core. For the required wire rope this means as much as 6 strands of 19 wires each around an independent wire rope core. All this according the 'Seale' type of design for wire rope construction. I could go into detail here but that would be a bit much. Just do the Google thing.

I hope this answers all your questions.

Oh and by the way, I don't even have a winch on my Gs and I've never winched a car in my life so don't hold it against me if I've just 'sold' you some bullshit
My knowledge about wire ropes comes directly from my job on a drilling rig where we use a few different types and sizes.

Regards,

NorthseaRoughneck
#177413 - in reply to #177374
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Posted 9/15/2010 10:08 PM
jeremyw
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RE: Your Rotzler plate explained

NorthseaRoughneck - 9/13/2010 6:44 AM

Jeremyw,

#1] Typically, a winch it's maximum rated line pull is quoted with the first layer of wire rope on the winch drum. With every layer of wire rope spooled onto the winch drum your winch becomes less powerful. As a general rule of thumb; for each layer of wire rope on the drum you should deduct 10% off the rated line pull. The figures on your winch plate don't exactly match this 10% rule of thumb but this is where it comes from and as Bram_r stated it all has to do with pretty simple mechanics ... torque = length of the lever arm x force applied.

#2] 1 kN = 224.808943 lbf so 15 kN = 15 x 224.808943 which equals 3372.134146 lbf. That may be, as you've stated, not so much but still sufficient to help you out of trouble. Remember that there is such a thing as "double line" technique which will double your line pull but halve your winching speed by making use of a snatch block. Bear in mind that there's approximately 10% friction loss for every snatch block in use.

#3] The 2060 N/mm^2 refers to the minimum required steel wire rope grade. The term "Grade" is used to designate the strength of the wire rope. Plow steel- ,improved plow steel- and extra improved plow steel wire rope are commonly known grades. Tensile strength (resistance to lengthwise stress) ranges from 220.000 to 260.000 psi for plow steel-, 260.000 to 280.000 psi for improved plow steel- and 280.000 to 310.000 psi for extra improved plow steel wire rope. This means that the minimum required steel wire rope strength grade for your Rotzler winch falls into the EIPS wire rope category (2060 N/mm^2 = 298777,752428 psi).

The 45 KN refers to the minimum breaking load required for the steel wire rope in use. In other words, the steel wire rope should be able to withstand at least 45 KN (10116,402439 lbf) of pulling force before it breaks.

#4] The design of the cable, 6x19+1SES nowadays would be referred to as 6x19S+IWRC. A steel wire rope is build up out of wires, strands and a core. For the required wire rope this means as much as 6 strands of 19 wires each around an independent wire rope core. All this according the 'Seale' type of design for wire rope construction. I could go into detail here but that would be a bit much. Just do the Google thing.

I hope this answers all your questions.

Oh and by the way, I don't even have a winch on my Gs and I've never winched a car in my life so don't hold it against me if I've just 'sold' you some bullshit
My knowledge about wire ropes comes directly from my job on a drilling rig where we use a few different types and sizes.

Regards,

NorthseaRoughneck


Thanks much Northsea! Physics overload!
#177510 - in reply to #177413
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Posted 9/28/2010 4:02 PM
jeremyw
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

G4Garret - 3/19/2010 7:53 PM

I finally went out and took some pictures of my Land Rover's Ramsey winch, and the Rotlzer pictured in Dutch's photos sure looks like the Ramsey motor, worm and reduction assembly. This leads me to believe that if it is not made by Ramsey, then it's a licensed copy.

Here is a pic from the underside of mine. I couldn't get the camera far enough away to get the whole assembly in the picture. Keeping in mind that the Rotzler is smounted inverted from normal, so the drain, breather and motor terminals are reversed.



And here is the Rotzler





And the Ramsey from the top side. You can see my home-made solenoid box on the left.






So in talking with Bob at Ramsey, he suggested the #251110 Ramsey controller. However, upon looking at the pic of it's connector, it's a 4pin(1dummy hole) AND female, not a 3pin male like the Rotzler needs for the winch controller.



Garret, does your Ramsey have a 4pin or 3pin connector?

Edited by jeremyw 2/24/2011 10:36 PM
#177997 - in reply to #168269
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Posted 9/28/2010 11:14 PM
jeremyw
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Re: Rotzler rebuild

FYI, just heard back from Bob at Ramsey--they don't offer a 3pin controller....unless someone knows of an old one they sold in the past.

Looks like the inexpensive Ramsey controller is out, crap!
#178033 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 9/29/2010 9:47 AM
hus55
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

hi there all. just read the write up, really interesting..

but i would much appreciate if someone would comment on the the Rotzler against major brand winches out there like the warn etc..
i am interested to know the advantages and downfalls in comparison.

i would love a Rotzler on the front of the 79 G i am working on
#178064 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 9/29/2010 10:24 AM
DUTCH
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

hus55 - 9/29/2010 9:47 AM

hi there all. just read the write up, really interesting..

but i would much appreciate if someone would comment on the the Rotzler against major brand winches out there like the warn etc..
i am interested to know the advantages and downfalls in comparison.

i would love a Rotzler on the front of the 79 G i am working on ;)


The Rotzler looks good and performs well, although extremely slow. If you want the original vintage look, it's the way to go.

If you want performance, go with something newer like a Warn. Warn is now the factory OEM. See the photos of the Swiss Worker I posted on pBase.com.
#178065 - in reply to #178064
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Posted 9/29/2010 2:43 PM
hus55
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

the 79 would look better with the vintage winch i think dutch.

silly question guys, pardon my ignorance but does the Rotzler work off the pto
#178074 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 9/29/2010 4:04 PM
DUTCH
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

hus55 - 9/29/2010 2:43 PM

silly question guys, pardon my ignorance but does the Rotzler work off the pto :dunce:


Pure electric. See here for a few photos:

http://www.pbase.com/flydutch/gwagen_rotzler_winch

Photos #'s 8 & 9 show the main power plug.

#'s 12 & 13 show the controller.
#178077 - in reply to #178074
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Posted 9/29/2010 9:06 PM
jeremyw
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

DUTCH - 9/29/2010 7:24 AM

hus55 - 9/29/2010 9:47 AM

hi there all. just read the write up, really interesting..

but i would much appreciate if someone would comment on the the Rotzler against major brand winches out there like the warn etc..
i am interested to know the advantages and downfalls in comparison.

i would love a Rotzler on the front of the 79 G i am working on ;)


The Rotzler looks good and performs well, although extremely slow. If you want the original vintage look, it's the way to go.

If you want performance, go with something newer like a Warn. Warn is now the factory OEM. See the photos of the Swiss Worker I posted on pBase.com.


Agreed on the vintage and period-correct look. However, that being said, ~$1300 for a damn controller by itself from Rotzler is just kinda silly.
I think I may end up removing but keeping the Rotzler for vintage reasons, but purchase a new Warn for about the same money and mount that instead on custom GWPreserve bumper.

Edited by jeremyw 9/29/2010 9:07 PM
#178089 - in reply to #178065
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Posted 9/30/2010 11:56 AM
Marx
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Re: Rotzler rebuild

Good afternoon G friends
fROM A WARM AND A SUNNY SOUTH AFRICA
i am not familiar with the Rotzler winch at all ,but what i can tell you is the first 1979 300 GD cabriolet imported into South africa came with a winch called a Rottweil winch with a reduction box an extremly strong ,you could winch a G class up a tree .The quality of the cable was so good and very flexible and tough that to date stil in use.i will sent a picture as soon as possible.

G regards

Johann

Edited by Marx 9/30/2010 2:40 PM
#178108 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 9/30/2010 6:28 PM
DUTCH
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Re: Rotzler rebuild

Marx - 9/30/2010 11:56 AM

Good afternoon G friends
fROM A WARM AND A SUNNY SOUTH AFRICA
i am not familiar with the Rotzler winch at all ,but what i can tell you is the first 1979 300 GD cabriolet imported into South africa came with a winch called a Rottweil winch with a reduction box an extremly strong ,you could winch a G class up a tree .The quality of the cable was so good and very flexible and tough that to date stil in use.i will sent a picture as soon as possible.

G regards

Johann


Does it look anything like the one pictured here:

http://www.pbase.com/flydutch/gwagen_rotzler_winch
#178117 - in reply to #178108
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Posted 2/4/2011 5:25 PM
bram_r
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Re: Rotzler rebuild

I got my parts back from the paintshop after sandblasting them.
Almost got everything assembled now and then ready for the first tests and winching up a new steel winch cable.
Any tips for winching up a brand new steel cable? Already someone told me to put some oil on the cable for rust prevention.

gr. Bram
#184401 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 2/5/2011 4:23 AM
hus55
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

hi there bram, good luck mate. it will be interesting to see the winch finished and fitted. i have aquired a rotzler too and will follow any advice/tips i pick up
from the thread.

do you have any pics of the rotzler painted?

rgds hus

dutch, i noticed a switch on your old 280 GEL . its the 2nd on the right of the ash tray? what is that for ? i recently purchased a very tidy 280 GEL from the uk that has the same style ac,[no vents under the dash.why was it added to G's after 86?] and it has the same switch too



(PC082558.jpg)



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#184415 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 2/5/2011 6:48 AM
DUTCH
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Recirculation Switch

hus55 - 2/5/2011 4:23 AM

dutch, i noticed a switch on your old 280 GEL . its the 2nd on the right of the ash tray? what is that for ? i recently purchased a very tidy 280 GEL from the uk that has the same style ac,[no vents under the dash.why was it added to G's after 86?] and it has the same switch too :confuzed:


Recirculation switch for the heater/AC. Closes the flap on the intake plenum under the hood so that air is recirculated in the G rather than having fresh air come in from the outside. Especially useful with the under performing OE A/C unit on the W460's.
#184417 - in reply to #184415
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Posted 2/5/2011 12:40 PM
hus55
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

thanks alot dutch

and thanks for telling the truth about the AC not being up to the job...
#184425 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 2/5/2011 4:29 PM
bram_r
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

Here some more pics of my Rotzler.
As seen earlier in this topic, I disassembled the complete winch, sandblasted the housing parts, then assembled some subassemblies with new gaskets and seals I ordered from Rotzler and had it sent out for painting.
I also ordered some other small parts, bolts and the overload switch which goes on the worm gear shaft. Have to adjust it sometime to protect the winch from overloading.

Some mods and info:
The original control box is replaced by an aluminum box with an universal motor (albright) relais in it.
All cables are new with crimped connections on them.
Damaged threads are repaired with a helicoil set.
I removed some dents in the winch frame by welding in some new tube sections.
Motor ground connection is now directly in the motorhousing instead of somewhere on the frame to minimise electrical losses.

The bushings that go behind the front bumper I made myself and had them elec. galvanized (see pic).
Also made that drum brake bushing myself and glued some friction material on it.
With a couple of those parts I made myself I saved some money so I spoiled myself with a nice winch cover saying 'Rotzler Winden' (see pic)

This afternoon I wound up my winch cable. Some time ago I bought a 40m, 8mm winch cable (just bought one, forgot to check the Rotzler specs...).
Anyway, on this Rotzler winch there should be 25m of 7mm cable according to the identification plate.
I eventually cut my cable down to 32meters, which are 5 windings on the drum. May cut it down later some more, but since I will use this winch more for some work 'around the house' then for maximum pulling force during off roading, so I settled for a little extra cable length.

For getting the cable nice and tight on the drum, I dragged my dads BMW with handbrake applied through the grass towards my G
Went really well, winch motor not getting real warm and no weird noises from the gear boxes.
I sprayed some silicone spray over the cable as it wound up on the drum, got this tip from a dutch 4x4 forum.

I did experience the drawback of the winch, after two 40meter pulls (I did do some winching with the motor off), the battery was dead. After jump starting, engine running on idle, the winch + headlights on drawed more amps then the alternator could deliver, eventually killing the engine. With a brick on the gaspedal getting the rpm on 1500 rpm or so, I could winch and keep the motor running.

So, for now I'm happy to have an original and working Rotzler winch on my G, just as it came delivered in 1984.
Later I will adjust that overload switch, then it will be complete finished.

Bram

Edited by bram_r 2/5/2011 4:37 PM




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