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Rotzler rebuild
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Posted 3/12/2011 3:35 PM
bram_r
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1659
1000
Re: Rotzler rebuild

Please keep me updated on your finds as well.
For my Rotzler would like to have that orange controller and the male and female screw on socket one day.

good work.

Bram
#186309 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 3/12/2011 3:40 PM
jeremyw
Elite Veteran




Date registered: Apr 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle(s): '03 G500 O'erlanderwagen
Posts: 846
500
Re: Rotzler rebuild

bram_r - 3/12/2011 12:35 PM

Please keep me updated on your finds as well.
For my Rotzler would like to have that orange controller and the male and female screw on socket one day.

good work.

Bram


Bram,

You seem much more electronics-savvy more than I. Why not build a few controllers and sell them?
PM sent with details how to make this happen!!
#186310 - in reply to #186309
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Posted 3/18/2011 9:43 PM
G4Garret
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Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oak Ridge - Knoxville - Windrock Tennessee
Vehicle(s): 2000 G500, U1100, SLK350, LR 101, WC-63 6x6
Posts: 243
100
RE: Rotzler rebuild

Jeremy, I just got your PM from last year. Sorry for the delay, I don't get on here often.

I just scanned through the thread, and I think you have already figured out the 3 pin connector. If you still need help, let me know (by email). As an engineer doing govenment T&E work, I work with those connectors fairly often. If you need a more reasonably priced source or help putting it together, let me know. It can be confusing getting all of the correct parts for a complete connector assembly, but it looks like you got it figured out already. Glenair can be expensive. FWIW I think Mouser electronics may have them. Probably half the price or less, and you can just order online with a credit card, and they are quick. I probably have a box of them in the shop somewhere. But finding them in an on demand manner is a low probability proposition.

Garret
#186623 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 3/19/2011 1:09 AM
jeremyw
Elite Veteran




Date registered: Apr 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle(s): '03 G500 O'erlanderwagen
Posts: 846
500
RE: Rotzler rebuild

G4Garret - 3/18/2011 6:43 PM

Jeremy, I just got your PM from last year. Sorry for the delay, I don't get on here often.

I just scanned through the thread, and I think you have already figured out the 3 pin connector. If you still need help, let me know (by email). As an engineer doing govenment T&E work, I work with those connectors fairly often. If you need a more reasonably priced source or help putting it together, let me know. It can be confusing getting all of the correct parts for a complete connector assembly, but it looks like you got it figured out already. Glenair can be expensive. FWIW I think Mouser electronics may have them. Probably half the price or less, and you can just order online with a credit card, and they are quick. I probably have a box of them in the shop somewhere. But finding them in an on demand manner is a low probability proposition.

Garret


Thanks much for replying though Garret!

So I take it your Rover has the 4pin from Ramsey?

I will send you an email, thanks!
#186626 - in reply to #186623
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Posted 3/19/2011 1:38 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: Rotzler rebuild

I agree with Garret. Check the usual suspects of electronics suppliers. And don't quit at thier on-line catalogs, give 'em a call. In addition to GlenAir, ITT Cannon is a good source for this kind of connector. I think Allied has some of their stuff that looks promising, though no pics there, so call and see if they'll confirm via your e-mailed pictures.

Jer, as regards your PM question about the cable OD, it's right at 0.328". Looks like pretty generic industiral power cord to me and probably overkill for the solenoid coil power it handles. I grabbed some better pictures for you while I was measuring the cable.

All the best,

-Dave G.



(P3190115.jpg)



(P3190112.jpg)



(P3190113.jpg)



(P3190114.jpg)



(P3190118.jpg)



(P3190116.jpg)



(P3190117.jpg)



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Attachments P3190115.jpg (276KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments P3190112.jpg (199KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments P3190113.jpg (177KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments P3190114.jpg (141KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments P3190118.jpg (127KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments P3190116.jpg (198KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments P3190117.jpg (132KB - 0 downloads)
#186638 - in reply to #186623
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Posted 3/20/2011 12:27 AM
jeremyw
Elite Veteran




Date registered: Apr 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle(s): '03 G500 O'erlanderwagen
Posts: 846
500
RE: Rotzler rebuild

Fantastic, thanks Dave!!

Looks like Pierce's P040 connector might be the one to mod; http://www.piercesales.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=P040&type=4&eq=&desc=Pierce-Winch-Toggle-Switch-Remote&key=it

From Pierce's owner; "The P040 wiring OD is .31inches, and the PSR is .28 inches OD."

#186652 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 3/20/2011 4:03 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: Rotzler rebuild

Depending on your environment, you might want to consider the material of the cord covering. If you'll use it in the cold, PVC cord covers get really stiff and it might be better to have an industrial rubber cord. It was pretty obvious that the stuff on the controller I have is just power cord based on the black/white/green conductor insulation inside. This stuff is probably available off a bulk roll at home improvement or electrical supply places. This one stays nice and flexible even when it's super cold out. This has been advantageous not just in using the winch, which I hardly ever do, but also in getting the controller out of the .30 cal ammo can that holds it along with a bunch of other spares and tools.

Just a thought.

-Dave G.
#186666 - in reply to #186652
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Posted 3/20/2011 4:17 PM
jeremyw
Elite Veteran




Date registered: Apr 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle(s): '03 G500 O'erlanderwagen
Posts: 846
500
RE: Rotzler rebuild

hipine - 3/20/2011 1:03 PM

Depending on your environment, you might want to consider the material of the cord covering. If you'll use it in the cold, PVC cord covers get really stiff and it might be better to have an industrial rubber cord. It was pretty obvious that the stuff on the controller I have is just power cord based on the black/white/green conductor insulation inside. This stuff is probably available off a bulk roll at home improvement or electrical supply places. This one stays nice and flexible even when it's super cold out. This has been advantageous not just in using the winch, which I hardly ever do, but also in getting the controller out of the .30 cal ammo can that holds it along with a bunch of other spares and tools.

Just a thought.

-Dave G.


Thx Dave!
#186667 - in reply to #186666
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Posted 6/18/2011 6:41 PM
bram_r
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1659
1000
RE: Rotzler rebuild

As I'm not a fanatic off roader, I haven't used my rebuild winch that much.
Just today it came in handy when I had to cut down a few trees that needed a little help to fall in the right direction.
So parked my G in the garden, connected the winch to the trees and with some tension on the line and somebody else winching, I could cut the trees and see them pulled in the right direction. Worked perfectly. Always nice to use your G in the different jobs around the house.

I only have to adjust my overload switch on the winch one day, have to find some method to adjust it properly.

Some action pics of the G winching and the 'score' of today, a trailer full of wood for next winter...

Bram





(Chris1k.JPG)



(Chris2k.JPG)



(Chris3k.JPG)



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Attachments Chris2k.JPG (130KB - 0 downloads)
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#191438 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 6/20/2011 11:28 PM
jeremyw
Elite Veteran




Date registered: Apr 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle(s): '03 G500 O'erlanderwagen
Posts: 846
500
Re: Rotzler rebuild

Ha, awesome Bram!!
#191488 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 7/2/2011 4:29 PM
bram_r
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1659
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RE: Rotzler rebuild

Now that I kinda have the winch installed on the bumper, I was a little afraid someone would one day unbolt the two mounting bolts of the winch and take it from my car. Simple as loosening two bolts.
To comfort myself, I decided two install a lock on the winch and what's more simpler that using the front tow pin for this. This tow pin goes through the winch frame on the bumper and as long as this pin is in place, the winch can't be remove from the bumper.
I bought a stainless Abus lock for this and drilled a hole in the pin. With the lock installed on this position it's quite hard to reach with cutting tools or discs.
See pics for installation.





(lock1.jpg)



(lock2.jpg)



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Attachments lock2.jpg (88KB - 0 downloads)
#191931 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 7/4/2011 12:46 PM
jeremyw
Elite Veteran




Date registered: Apr 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle(s): '03 G500 O'erlanderwagen
Posts: 846
500
Re: Rotzler rebuild

Great idea Bram!!
#191973 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 7/4/2011 2:20 PM
hus55
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: north cyprus,lapta.
Vehicle(s): 300GDS, G300 LONG,300GDT CLK55 AMG CAB.
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2000
RE: Rotzler rebuild

i have the same nightmares bram...

i will follow you on this one....
#191976 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 7/4/2011 2:55 PM
hipine



Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
5000
RE: Rotzler rebuild - tamper resistance

Nice work Bram!

For anyone not wanting to modify the pin, or wanting to avoid extra steps to use it, or even for use in other similar applications, consider these (I'm sure there other brands out there too):

http://www.brycefastener.com/pentanut.htm

-Dave G.

ps - pack the lock with water-resistant grease to ease use after exposure to salt air and road spray without a bunch of maintenance

Edited by hipine 7/4/2011 3:08 PM
#191977 - in reply to #191931
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Posted 1/22/2015 2:25 PM
bram_r
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1659
1000
RE: Rotzler rebuild - tamper resistance

hipine - 7/4/2011 8:55 PM

Nice work Bram!

For anyone not wanting to modify the pin, or wanting to avoid extra steps to use it, or even for use in other similar applications, consider these (I'm sure there other brands out there too):

http://www.brycefastener.com/pentanut.htm

-Dave G.

ps - pack the lock with water-resistant grease to ease use after exposure to salt air and road spray without a bunch of maintenance


These are some nics locking nuts Dave.
M14 is the size for the long bolts that hold the winch to the bumper, will look into the cost of these nuts and the tool that comes with it.

gr, bram
#226350 - in reply to #191977
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Posted 1/23/2015 4:54 AM
diesel_jim
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Date registered: Jan 2014
Location: N Wiltshire. UK
Vehicle(s): LR Defender 110, 1989 W460 SWB
Posts: 114
100
Re: Rotzler rebuild

Looking at some of the (very useful!) pictures, I see these bolts and spacers:

http://pointedthree.com/disc/forums/get-attachment.php?attachmentid=32559

 (sorry, couldn't get the picture to attach properly!)

 

I figure that the bolts go vertically behind the bumper, and the spacer tubes are to stop the bumper from getting crushed in, but what are the welded on strips on the side of the spacer tubes for?

Does anyone happen to have one to hand they could measure the length of the tube and the welded on bit please? 



Edited by diesel_jim 1/23/2015 5:09 AM
#226360 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 1/23/2015 5:29 AM
bram_r
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1659
1000
Re: Rotzler rebuild

The welded on strips go to the back of the bumper and basicly transmit the pulling force that the winch exists to the rear section of the bumper.
With the strips, a large area is created to transmit theses forces.

You have to see it like when the winch is pulling, how is it stopped from sliding of the bumper.

As Dutch said earlier, the tow pin doesn't take any of that force, that more for locating the winch in the center of the bumper.

Gr Bram


#226361 - in reply to #226360
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Posted 1/23/2015 6:20 AM
diesel_jim
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Date registered: Jan 2014
Location: N Wiltshire. UK
Vehicle(s): LR Defender 110, 1989 W460 SWB
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Re: Rotzler rebuild

Ah OK, so when you bolt the whole shebang up, you need to make sure that the welded strips are rotated around to touch the "back" of the bumper prior to tightening up the bolts?

gotcha.
#226362 - in reply to #167768
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Posted 1/23/2015 12:50 PM
bram_r
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1659
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Re: Rotzler rebuild

diesel_jim - 1/23/2015 12:20 PM

Ah OK, so when you bolt the whole shebang up, you need to make sure that the welded strips are rotated around to touch the "back" of the bumper prior to tightening up the bolts?

gotcha.


Indeed, a 100% correct.

I will forward you the measurements when I have the chance.

gr. bram
#226365 - in reply to #226362
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Posted 1/23/2015 3:24 PM
diesel_jim
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Date registered: Jan 2014
Location: N Wiltshire. UK
Vehicle(s): LR Defender 110, 1989 W460 SWB
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Re: Rotzler rebuild

Many thanks. I printed out all of the pictures on this thread. Should give me some good ideas when I get around to making a winch mount.

thanks again

Jamie
#226369 - in reply to #167768
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