Welcome Guest. ( logon | register )   
FAQ Member List Albums Today's Posts Search

PointedThree :  Vans, Trucks, SUVs and Other Forums : G-Class : SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Page 3 of 7 <1234.055.056.05>
SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46
Topic Tools Message Format
Author
Posted 6/6/2011 2:07 PM
Marcus Frost
Member


Date registered: Mar 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Vehicle(s): 2009 G55 AMG
Posts: 17

Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Wanted to update this thread since it generated a lot of interest.

When I first made the thread and was borderline complaining about the ride, it actually turned out both of my front shocks were blown. 30k miles, no offroading. Covered under warranty. We didn't know at first why the truck was making so much noise and being so stiff (even for a G) when going over harsher bumps but it rattled the hell out of me and my tech agreed something was up. He essentially replaced much of the front suspension including a lot of the bushings, the shocks, but not the springs. It was a big bill so we decided not to try and install Koni shocks because we were not sure at the time if that would resolve the problem. It did, but I already had the Koni shocks and decided to hold off on installing them.

Now the car was due for brakes and an A service, so I decided to use this time to do the shocks as well. I am told by my shop that the SPXs are either out of production, or going out of production according to Koni. I did not try and verify this, but those who are on the fence may want to call Koni and ask them about the availability of the SPX shocks for our W463s.

After Tom's issue I am somewhat concerned about making sure that the install goes well, thankfully I do not cut corners on these matters and have the most competent people I know doing the install. I am going to set the shocks for full soft front and rear to start with, and may turn the rear a half turn stiffer as required. If anyone has any suggestions for stock reds front stock browns rear on SPXs in regards to what stiffness to set the shocks at, I would appreciate it.

I will report back progress.

Regards,

Marcus

Edited by Marcus Frost 6/6/2011 2:08 PM
#190837 - in reply to #173711
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/6/2011 6:17 PM
ewalberg
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

unless it has already been done and recommended you should not start at full soft... as a matter of principle, and safety, you should start at full stiff and work your way towards the softer settings.

One comment for Redbull Addict, you can do a few things to the shocks... send them back for re-valving, or change shock oil to something lighter. Lighter shock oil will soften the damping in both directions but may hopefully get you more into the sweet spot you'd be looking for.

Edited by ewalberg 6/6/2011 6:20 PM
#190854 - in reply to #190837
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/6/2011 6:47 PM
Razon



Date registered: Jul 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle(s): 1986 280ge Cabrio, 617A, 5sp manual
500
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

I have the same shocks.

How do you make them harder? The only adjustment is for rebound.
#190855 - in reply to #173711
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/6/2011 8:07 PM
ewalberg
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

I think sometimes on single adjustable shocks that both compression and rebound are affected by the knob, but not too sure of that. if it really is only rebound, and you want to stiffen compression damping then you need to send them back in for re-valving of put in heavier weight oil.

One thing i should mention is that my knowledge of changing oils is from mountain bike shocks where you could use a variety of weight oils to manage the feel of the shocks where there was going to be too much time and hassle with sending them back in for re-valving. You should also be able to mix oils, so if the shocks ship with 10 weight oil and the next weight for purchase is 15 or 20 weight oil, you can do a half and half blend to get something in the middle.
#190859 - in reply to #190855
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/6/2011 9:26 PM
dai
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
Posts: 2110
2000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

I would recommend the first soft out of the box setting to start with. My Koni's are great on my truck at that setting and any harder at the moment would be too much. I have a SWB with very stiff springs, Lilac rears and White fronts. The Koni's make the springs behave. I have a lot of miles on the setup, still fantastic. I am off road all the time and on road with heavy loads often. For me and what I do I like this combo a lot. It would be too hard for many, it is not a cush ride at all. I like the minimum body roll cornering and very taught control on interesting terrain.
The Koni's are not like motorcycle forks or bike suspension. They are factory set with oil and gas. They are adjustable but that involves removal from the vehicle to do it. The Koni's I have on a motorcycle allow for adjustment via a click wheel. The truck shocks involve rotating one end of the shock while keeping the other still.

-Dai
#190860 - in reply to #174690
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/7/2011 3:05 AM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Marcus Frost - 6/6/2011 12:07 PM

Wanted to update this thread since it generated a lot of interest.

When I first made the thread and was borderline complaining about the ride, it actually turned out both of my front shocks were blown. 30k miles, no offroading. Covered under warranty. We didn't know at first why the truck was making so much noise and being so stiff (even for a G) when going over harsher bumps but it rattled the hell out of me and my tech agreed something was up. He essentially replaced much of the front suspension including a lot of the bushings, the shocks, but not the springs. It was a big bill so we decided not to try and install Koni shocks because we were not sure at the time if that would resolve the problem. It did, but I already had the Koni shocks and decided to hold off on installing them.

Now the car was due for brakes and an A service, so I decided to use this time to do the shocks as well. I am told by my shop that the SPXs are either out of production, or going out of production according to Koni. I did not try and verify this, but those who are on the fence may want to call Koni and ask them about the availability of the SPX shocks for our W463s.

After Tom's issue I am somewhat concerned about making sure that the install goes well, thankfully I do not cut corners on these matters and have the most competent people I know doing the install. I am going to set the shocks for full soft front and rear to start with, and may turn the rear a half turn stiffer as required. If anyone has any suggestions for stock reds front stock browns rear on SPXs in regards to what stiffness to set the shocks at, I would appreciate it.

I will report back progress.

Regards,

Marcus


Marcus

Your G55k has a spring system made out of the basic springs and the rubber springs inside your amg shocks.

The combo gives a much higher spring rate (variable one) at heavy bumps than your springs along.

Also your ride height on a 55k is lower at front than the rest of the Gs and almost the same at the rear(still a little lower)

If you install Koni spxs you will loose even a little more height from the loss of the springs in your amg shocks and also the extra gas pressure they come with.

You will have a comfy ride but some more body roll and you should never go fast with a set up like this........

The red front MBs are too soft for the 55k by them selves.....you need more spring at front, the 55k is heavier at front than other Gs but if you want the G500 or 550 ride the reds are the best since they will give the performance of yellow orange at front on a 55 being a little heavier than a 500.

G 550 shocks would be a good and a lot more proper alternative for comfort for your G.
They cost almost one grant to buy and one can install them by any one for an hours labor or close to it.

Your front end being lower than a 550 will compress the rubber spring in the 550 shock at ride height more than designed for these shocks but you can remedy this easy if you do not get other springs....if you go to reds you will be fine.

At rear brown springs are very heavy if you do not carry heavy loads and yellow orange would be best and only if you change the front to reds going for a 550 feel and set up which is yellow orange front and rear but in your case red and yellow orange rear for the little weight difference at front

You should go with 2 stripes on your springs not three.

If you already have the konis see if you could install the amg cilastio out of your front shocks to the konis....that will give you less body roll and a more controlled ride at front

You can run with out the rears just the stock springs and have a great ride.

Mario
#190869 - in reply to #190837
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/7/2011 3:28 AM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Razon - 6/6/2011 4:47 PM

I have the same shocks.

How do you make them harder? The only adjustment is for rebound.


Rebound (extension force) is the one that matters most .

Compression (bump) is only to control your unsprung weight so it does not need to be adjustable on a G.

If you compress the shocks all the way and turn left while compressed they will enga ge the foot valve and then you turn left to soften and right to harden.

Your rebound is the force applied by the shock to your springs after they compress through a bump in order for the suspension to extend slow and in a controlled manner for best tire compliance to the road and comfort.
In other words rebound forces are the shock holding your spring from extending after it compresses and it let it extend sloer or faster based on where your rebound is dialed in at.

The higher you adjust the rebound the stiffest they will ride and the fastest the weight shifts with steering inputs which means less initial body roll and faster steering response.

Stiffer front on shock rebound you will not feel it ride rough unless you go too far,and at the rear you are better of with less for best comfort and safest handling.(under steering set up which is preferred by most manufacturers and necessary for safe handling mostly if it does not have esp on a G)

If you post what springs you got if they are MBs we can calculate the spring rate of the charts and call Koni give them that and the motion ratio on your shocks(how much shock travel for the a specific amount of spring travel) and know exactly where to set them for best performance and comfort.

Mario
#190870 - in reply to #190855
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/7/2011 10:38 AM
Razon



Date registered: Jul 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle(s): 1986 280ge Cabrio, 617A, 5sp manual
500
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

The reason I asked is because I adjusted my front shocks (180deg towards hard) and I can't tell if it rides any harder.
It does feel different, but I wouldn't describe it as harder, or a harsh ride. I was actually thinking to go more and see how it feels.

I have the red front springs and yellow orange rears. From previous posts I remember the weight of the tires being important as well for proper calculation. The ones I have are about 90lbs ea, without the rim. Where do you send this info?

#190880 - in reply to #173711
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/7/2011 4:29 PM
ewalberg
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Both rebound and compression are critical to vehicle stability.

i really disagree with 512bbi that compression is only for controlling unsprung weight. it is absolutely critical to managing body roll during cornering and preventing bottoming out on larger bumps, and in general it has more effect on how smooth or rough the car feels over bumps then the spring rate or rebound.

As an example, i blew out the damper on my bike shock and i had to more than doubled the air spring pressure in the shock (in fact i maxed it out) and despite maxing out the air spring to be MUCH stiffer it was SUPER plush and soft riding compared to with the damping circuit working... but and it would still bottom out WAY too easily.

Though all the inputs matter (spring rate, rebound and compression damping) compression damping is the most important component of how the ride feels. Rebound is very important to vehicle stability for reasons that 512bbi mentions, but it has less impact on how smooth the suspension feels than compression damping. I've recently installed double adjustable shocks on my lotus. The springs are 25% stiffer all around, and the compression and rebound are both adjustable via nobs, and the compression dial makes the biggest difference on feel over bumps. But 512bbi is right, rebound does still definitely have impact on feel and control of driving. Regardless of 25% stiffer springs all around, the shocks are softer feeling over bumps. The compression circuit can be run lighter than the original springs and shocks, and rebound kept at a level which maintains stability.

One of the primary reasons why i hesitate to go with aftermarket shocks is becuase the existing shocks were (i believe it was said here) a compromise of highway and offroad driving geared towards maintaining safety in faster off-road driving... so the reason for the stiffer compression damping is to avoid bottoming out the truck and bending an axle on higher speed off road driving. To complicate matters shocks can have separate high speed (small bump) and low speed (large bump) compression damping circuits, (so just how they feel isn't always a perfect indicator of ability of a shock to resist bottoming out) but long story short is that if you don't know someone (or many people) with specific experience with those shocks, then a "softer" riding shock may be great on road and okay for slow off road driving but you could be in for some surprises when you hit bigger bumps off road at speed.

Edited by ewalberg 6/7/2011 4:33 PM
#190900 - in reply to #190870
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/7/2011 5:29 PM
ewalberg
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

so if you have only rebound adjustment on your shocks and you increase damping, it could actually feel both smoother or rougher depending on the obstacle. With rebound damping cranked up, if you were to hit a sharp ster-like bump (like a 1" transition step up) on the road the truck will return to level/neutral more slowly and feel a little softer for it, but if you drove off a 1" step it might feel harsher becuase the tire takes too long to extend down to meet the road so you feel it drop more. In the case of driving off a little ledge, less rebound would feel softer and driving up a step a little bouncier/rougher. Rebound damping set too stiff may generally feel okay, but on offroading or stuttering bumps, it'll pack up (because it can't extend quick enough) and then be functionally rougher.

For these varying relationships which change relative to the kind of obstacle, it makes sense that 512bbi says it's more important to have adjustability of rebound than compression. Compression adjustment on the other hand is more straight forward in many ways becuase stiffer is always stiffer feeling, and softer is always softer feeling it's a more straight forward balance of how stiff you want it vs. how willing to bottom out your suspension you are.


Edited by ewalberg 6/7/2011 5:34 PM
#190902 - in reply to #190880
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/8/2011 3:59 AM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

ewalberg - 6/7/2011 2:29 PM

Both rebound and compression are critical to vehicle stability.

i really disagree with 512bbi that compression is only for controlling unsprung weight. it is absolutely critical to managing body roll during cornering and preventing bottoming out on larger bumps, and in general it has more effect on how smooth or rough the car feels over bumps then the spring rate or rebound.

As an example, i blew out the damper on my bike shock and i had to more than doubled the air spring pressure in the shock (in fact i maxed it out) and despite maxing out the air spring to be MUCH stiffer it was SUPER plush and soft riding compared to with the damping circuit working... but and it would still bottom out WAY too easily.

Though all the inputs matter (spring rate, rebound and compression damping) compression damping is the most important component of how the ride feels. Rebound is very important to vehicle stability for reasons that 512bbi mentions, but it has less impact on how smooth the suspension feels than compression damping. I've recently installed double adjustable shocks on my lotus. The springs are 25% stiffer all around, and the compression and rebound are both adjustable via nobs, and the compression dial makes the biggest difference on feel over bumps. But 512bbi is right, rebound does still definitely have impact on feel and control of driving. Regardless of 25% stiffer springs all around, the shocks are softer feeling over bumps. The compression circuit can be run lighter than the original springs and shocks, and rebound kept at a level which maintains stability.

One of the primary reasons why i hesitate to go with aftermarket shocks is becuase the existing shocks were (i believe it was said here) a compromise of highway and offroad driving geared towards maintaining safety in faster off-road driving... so the reason for the stiffer compression damping is to avoid bottoming out the truck and bending an axle on higher speed off road driving. To complicate matters shocks can have separate high speed (small bump) and low speed (large bump) compression damping circuits, (so just how they feel isn't always a perfect indicator of ability of a shock to resist bottoming out) but long story short is that if you don't know someone (or many people) with specific experience with those shocks, then a "softer" riding shock may be great on road and okay for slow off road driving but you could be in for some surprises when you hit bigger bumps off road at speed.


Erik

When you fall of an edge with too much rebound you get a thump not a benefit.

Shocks are dampers of the springs.

The springs are really the shock absorbers.

Because the world has used the wrong terms for ever it does not mean conclusions or logical assumptions make physics in engineering.

Dampers (shocks ) can not and should never being used to limit bottoming out of suspension.

A shock simply resist movement in compression ( commonly called bump) and in extension.

In extension (rebound) after the spring they control compresses and in compresson when the spring compresses.

Most good shocks have less force in compression than extension.

On a G your shock bump should be according to your unsprung weight and your extension according to your spring rate.

On your Lotus with your adjustable shocks if you dial in more bump at the front end and less at the rear and do the oposite with rebound you might enjoy a better set up in fun handling if you play in that direction (if mid engine?) and the other way on rebound if front engine....

On a G even if one had 50/50 shocks (as of the old days same force in bump and rebound) you can still have control of your springs ....but not the best ride.

That is why rebound is what Koni for example give adjustability for to match your springs with if you change rates etc......your unsprung weight is constant and they come at a good rate to control most variations.

We can not stop bottoming out with shocks and is not recomended that is what we have springs ,bump stops(they are springs also) and cilastios(more spring) in some shocks

There are shock type of devices plus shocks that have features like that ......even the 90 raids have it but is not for avoiding to bottom out.

Bikes are not automobiles....

Mario
#190926 - in reply to #190900
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/8/2011 4:08 AM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Razon - 6/7/2011 8:38 AM

The reason I asked is because I adjusted my front shocks (180deg towards hard) and I can't tell if it rides any harder.
It does feel different, but I wouldn't describe it as harder, or a harsh ride. I was actually thinking to go more and see how it feels.

I have the red front springs and yellow orange rears. From previous posts I remember the weight of the tires being important as well for proper calculation. The ones I have are about 90lbs ea, without the rim. Where do you send this info?



With tires that heavy if you have spxs you got the wrong shocks.

Some domestic shocks like Rancho might work for you.

One half turn(180 egrees) will not give you much change on spxs

Your got five of those from full soft to full hard .

Try another two halfs at the front only and see what you get.

Mario
#190928 - in reply to #190880
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/8/2011 1:41 PM
ewalberg
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

In my other post, I have already posted and stated that driving off a step with too much rebound will cause a harsh feeling.

Maybe we have a problem of word choices... you can say the world is referring to some things wrong... i will agree some choices are strange, but you are also using words completely wrong in some cases where there are good and relevant engineering terms for things and you're either using the wrong word or trying to use the word differently which already has a proper meaning... this will not help your ability to discuss these things.

Compression damping doesn't necessarily have any special roll for preventing bottoming out like a bottom bumper or stop, but it is still the primary thing which keeps us from hitting those bottom out stops/celastios in most normal driving, even just over speed bumps. It is always acting and it is absolutely critical to controlling excessive movement associated with quick changes. And the worst case of excessive movement (which will result if you have too little comrpession damping) is bottoming out.

Springs actually, technically absorb almost no shock at all. They store it and then return it... it is becuase of their efficiency at storing and returning energy that you need dampers to actually absorb impacts. That's why dampers can heat up, and even get too hot and fail, becuase they're actually doing the vast majority of the work. If anything the primary roll of springs is to creating a situation with a nominal (neatural) ride height which is flat but allowing the suspension to flex (compress and extend) to meet the road over varying terrain, but it's the compression and rebound that absorb nearly all of the impacts.

On very slow moving changes i will agree that shocks (compression damping) has minimal ability to prevent bottoming (if any), but with any kind of impact or with any real speed you could bottom out pretty much any car which lacks compression damping. 10mph is real speed... in fact just lifting the car up enough that you're at full droop on the suspension would allow it to gather some real speed if you suddenly let it go). For example, if your car sits 6 inches into it's suspension travel (6" of droop) and you lift it up until the tires are just touching (at full droop), and you release it, you will see the car compress the suspension to about 12"... it will compress the suspension twice as much as at rest.

In general it is primary responsability of compression damping to prevent bottoming, not the spring. You can certainly design a spring which will prevent bottoming, but you would need to use an incredibly stiff springs. If you don't know this you have no experience with suspension which has had a failed compression damping circuit. Take the shocks off your truck and see how easy it is to bottom out your truck. You will be shocked. (no pun intended).

Shocks are not just dampers of the springs, they're damper of the complete system. I agree that rebound should be set according to spring rate, but again i disagree that compression damping is set according to unsprung weight. I wont dispute that unsprung weight may need to be considered, but It MUST also take into consideration the vehicle weight. It is a basic principle of damping systems (using a oil circuit or something similar to control excessive movement to eliminate bouncing) that the actual weight of the object supported (the vehicle, not the unsprung weight) must be taken into consideration or you can have an under-damped system (bouncing) which can be dangerous.

i don't disupte that most shocks have more rebound than compression, nor that koni has supplied a shock with sufficient damping for our trucks. But it's still compression damping that is going to have the most affect on feel so if someone is complaining about a rough ride on the SPX, there is not likely too much that can be done about it without changing valving or fluid weight/viscosity.

Bikes are not automobiles but they are still 100% relevant when discussing anything with respect to the relationships of suspension behavior with regards to the relationships between compression damping, rebound damping, and spring rates. In fact cars and bikes are simply an application of engineering dynamics and system damping, we don't need either of them for this discussion, they just help with examples.

Edited by ewalberg 6/8/2011 1:47 PM
#190944 - in reply to #190926
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/8/2011 4:23 PM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Erik

Compression dampening of the shock is NOT designed to prevent bottoming out on the majority of the automobiles made including the ones you drive.
They are used as bump stops in special applications but not everyday cars.

They are made as part of your suspension to control your springs ,unsprung weight and enhance the handling in combination as a system to a lot of other components with your suspension and chassis.

When you go through a bump the spring compresses absorbing the shock by shortening in length and then the shock absorbs part of that energy by controlling the spring to extent at a frequency range that is best for tire compliance (handling) and comfort among others.......

When compression gets generated your unsprung weight adds a lot to the possible compression of the spring and that is where the shock comes in helping the spring but not so much as in extension.

In order for the shocks to help the spring in compression from bottoming out they would have to be too powerful to the point the car would be impossible to ride in comfort or be safe to drive

The G is an ancient and basic robust design, where just some good selection of the proper springs and shocks with in the guide lines of the manufacturer can give a decent ride in comfort and performance for what the G is.

You can not have a G55k go 130mph as it can with shocks and the main springs .

AMG placed those additional cilastios in their shocks for a reason(they are springs) so one does not get killed if they were to go through a dip at high speed and that is a lot of spring rate when needed combined with lots of rebound forces
Result is lack of comfort.

No free lunch .....if one can be safe going slower they can effort to loose some high speed performance and gain comfort and of road worthiness with the 55k

Always fun to hear you think and you are right I can not express my thoughts in writing very good at all .....bad habit from a lifetime of dictating others that had the skill to put on paper what I needed.......but now that I am retired I am practicing and getting better....sorry if I was not clear.

Mario

Edited by 512bbi 6/8/2011 4:33 PM
#190955 - in reply to #190944
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/8/2011 5:31 PM
ewalberg
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

We really aren't talking about the 55k's unusual suspension design... we can include it, but it's going to make things more complicated.

It's clear you basically understand the purpose of the different aspect of compression damping, rebound damping and springs, but we're going to have to agree to disagree that we have a fundamentally different understanding of how important and how critical and how primary compression damping is to suspension design and bottom out prevention. My experience, education, and understanding is that even at minimal speeds it is precisely the shocks (and not the springs) that are doing the work to keep you from bottoming your suspension. Like i said, remove your shocks and see what you get. Try driving through an intersection with water flow drops at 20mph and see what you get without compression damping. Try crawling over a simple speed bump in a mall parking lot and see what you get. You WILL be shocked.

When you slowly drive over a speed bump in most conventional cars with limited suspension travel the primary thing that keeps it from bottoming it out is the compression damping. As an example, I have an old co-worker who has an late 90's audi a4, and slowly driving over speedbumps at very low speeds you can absolutely feel the car bottom out on the back side of the bump. I don't know if it's set-up that way for generally soft ride, or if her shocks were bad, but i gauranttee you her springs were in good working order... the shocks may have been still okay and by design, but it was under-damped no matter what.

I'll bet i could bottom out virtually any g-wagen at less than 10mph on a driveway or a mall parking lot if you remove the oil damped shocks and use only springs. AMG's decision to use additional elastomers in their suspension would be nothing more than further proof that compression damping is critical becuase elastomers fundamentally have a component of damping to them which springs do not. Elastomers are capable of absorbing much more energy than springs. Conventional suspensions (of any kind) generally do not use bottom out bumpers as an continuos part of their suspension as AMG has chosen, in part becuase they're highly temperature sensitive. On the vast majority of vehicles, they suspension is basically intended NOT to hit those becuase they're usually only there as a last ditch design addition to keep you from damaging parts with a hard bottom of metal on metal, or vehicle to road.

I agree there is no free lunch, i agree things must all be balanced and there are compromises to make ride comfort and control. I'm not disputing that you need additional bumpers in AMG suspension to make it stable. These things change nothing in my argument. The bumpers are nothing more than one way of executing an increase in spring rate AND an increase in compression damping. You may need them because there is not enough space to do with conventional springs and dampers, but those bumpers are not the ideal way of getting the outcome you have. There is nothing about those elastomers in AMG design which could not be accomplished with a properly designed spring and damper system (if they had the space)... but their decision to chose that route probably was a required compromise due to limited space. It may very well be the best solution all things considered.

thinking more about this, maybe our missunderstanding is that when i say compression damping prevents bottoming out, i mean that it does so in general, but not as an absolute rule. My point is that if you didn't have compression damping on cars today you would find they are remarkably easy to bottom out in regular driving and in many cases where you think that the spring is doing the work to prevent bottom out, it's actually the shock doing it. However, becuase comfort is important the compression is not so stiff that you can never bottom out... if you hit a big enough bump hard enough you can still definitely bottom out. I have bottomed out my g-wagen on the freeway when i hit a snow bank left by a snow plow that i thought was just powder, so to your point, compression damping doesn't fundamentally prevent bottoming out, but it defintely the primary thing keeping cars from bottoming out in general driving.

Edited by ewalberg 6/8/2011 5:45 PM
#190960 - in reply to #190955
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 6/10/2011 2:29 AM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
Re: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

ewalberg - 6/8/2011 3:31 PM

We really aren't talking about the 55k's unusual suspension design... we can include it, but it's going to make things more complicated.

It's clear you basically understand the purpose of the different aspect of compression damping, rebound damping and springs, but we're going to have to agree to disagree that we have a fundamentally different understanding of how important and how critical and how primary compression damping is to suspension design and bottom out prevention. My experience, education, and understanding is that even at minimal speeds it is precisely the shocks (and not the springs) that are doing the work to keep you from bottoming your suspension. Like i said, remove your shocks and see what you get. Try driving through an intersection with water flow drops at 20mph and see what you get without compression damping. Try crawling over a simple speed bump in a mall parking lot and see what you get. You WILL be shocked.

When you slowly drive over a speed bump in most conventional cars with limited suspension travel the primary thing that keeps it from bottoming it out is the compression damping. As an example, I have an old co-worker who has an late 90's audi a4, and slowly driving over speedbumps at very low speeds you can absolutely feel the car bottom out on the back side of the bump. I don't know if it's set-up that way for generally soft ride, or if her shocks were bad, but i gauranttee you her springs were in good working order... the shocks may have been still okay and by design, but it was under-damped no matter what.

I'll bet i could bottom out virtually any g-wagen at less than 10mph on a driveway or a mall parking lot if you remove the oil damped shocks and use only springs. AMG's decision to use additional elastomers in their suspension would be nothing more than further proof that compression damping is critical becuase elastomers fundamentally have a component of damping to them which springs do not. Elastomers are capable of absorbing much more energy than springs. Conventional suspensions (of any kind) generally do not use bottom out bumpers as an continuos part of their suspension as AMG has chosen, in part becuase they're highly temperature sensitive. On the vast majority of vehicles, they suspension is basically intended NOT to hit those becuase they're usually only there as a last ditch design addition to keep you from damaging parts with a hard bottom of metal on metal, or vehicle to road.

I agree there is no free lunch, i agree things must all be balanced and there are compromises to make ride comfort and control. I'm not disputing that you need additional bumpers in AMG suspension to make it stable. These things change nothing in my argument. The bumpers are nothing more than one way of executing an increase in spring rate AND an increase in compression damping. You may need them because there is not enough space to do with conventional springs and dampers, but those bumpers are not the ideal way of getting the outcome you have. There is nothing about those elastomers in AMG design which could not be accomplished with a properly designed spring and damper system (if they had the space)... but their decision to chose that route probably was a required compromise due to limited space. It may very well be the best solution all things considered.

thinking more about this, maybe our missunderstanding is that when i say compression damping prevents bottoming out, i mean that it does so in general, but not as an absolute rule. My point is that if you didn't have compression damping on cars today you would find they are remarkably easy to bottom out in regular driving and in many cases where you think that the spring is doing the work to prevent bottom out, it's actually the shock doing it. However, becuase comfort is important the compression is not so stiff that you can never bottom out... if you hit a big enough bump hard enough you can still definitely bottom out. I have bottomed out my g-wagen on the freeway when i hit a snow bank left by a snow plow that i thought was just powder, so to your point, compression damping doesn't fundamentally prevent bottoming out, but it defintely the primary thing keeping cars from bottoming out in general driving.


Erik

We have to agree to disagree

In my opinion ,the fact that some cars would bottom out if driven with out shocks does not prove that shocks are designed to prevent bottoming out but that some cars will do so if they have both the spring and unsprung weight out of control with out the aid of the shock.

You would be amazed how much force the unsprung weight generates with the tire flex when hitting a bump.

Mario

Mario
#191016 - in reply to #190960
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 7/1/2011 1:59 AM
Redbull Addict
Veteran


Date registered: May 2006
Location: Morgan Hill, California USA
Vehicle(s): '12 G550
Posts: 171
100
RE: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

OK gents...it's my turn again

the last time you heard from me I installed a new Koni SPX and it was marginally better. 15K miles later I can't take it anymore. With my BFG AT's 285/65/18 E-rated at 32lbs cold, the truck feels like its bottoming out when hitting potholes or speed bumps at anything over a slow speed. It really feels like something is going to break. This past weekend I was in Death Valley with a fully loaded truck trying to fly across those nasty washboards and it felt like I was going to destroy the truck. I know the SPX are good shocks but perhaps because of the oversized and very heavy tires the original springs and SPX combination is not working for me.

My question is where do I go from here? I need this truck to ride more comfortably onroad and handle the washboards better offroad both loaded with gear and without. The current setup sucks.

Are the 2 strip red springs stock on the 463? Do I need something stiffer to handle the extra unsprung weight? based on what I read in this thread the SPX may not be the right shocks for me...so I need the Koni 90's? I rather not get Koni's after the crappy support I received.

I'm open to all suggestions.
#191857 - in reply to #173711
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 7/1/2011 3:36 AM
kerry460
Elite Veteran


Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: tasmania australia
Vehicle(s): 1984 300GD LWB WAGEN
Posts: 611
500
RE: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

G,,day possibly a silly question.
have you tried adjusting them?
kerry
#191859 - in reply to #173711
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 7/1/2011 4:06 AM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
RE: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Redbull Addict - 6/30/2011 11:59 PM

OK gents...it's my turn again

the last time you heard from me I installed a new Koni SPX and it was marginally better. 15K miles later I can't take it anymore. With my BFG AT's 285/65/18 E-rated at 32lbs cold, the truck feels like its bottoming out when hitting potholes or speed bumps at anything over a slow speed. It really feels like something is going to break. This past weekend I was in Death Valley with a fully loaded truck trying to fly across those nasty washboards and it felt like I was going to destroy the truck. I know the SPX are good shocks but perhaps because of the oversized and very heavy tires the original springs and SPX combination is not working for me.

My question is where do I go from here? I need this truck to ride more comfortably onroad and handle the washboards better offroad both loaded with gear and without. The current setup sucks.

Are the 2 strip red springs stock on the 463? Do I need something stiffer to handle the extra unsprung weight? based on what I read in this thread the SPX may not be the right shocks for me...so I need the Koni 90's? I rather not get Koni's after the crappy support I received.

I'm open to all suggestions. :cheers:


Tom

Here is my two cents on your problem.

Before you take what I suggest that I would do if I was you to do what you describe I would like you to define fully loaded truck with any accessories you might have at the front end....every little bit matters.
You might want to put your truck on some scales on a truck stop and measure front and rear weight loaded as you go out to your trip in death valley, then you can install what it will work since we can read the spring charts and know exactly where your ride height will be with MB springs.

From the sound of it you need more spring rate and also additional spring rate in a variable manner as done by amg.
The photo with the two rubber aux springs has the large one (left) and the right one (right side smaller one),the smaller one is from the inside of an amg g55k front shock......you need that with two or three stripe red springs.
On the photo with the red looking Konis you are looking at stock 90 series front shocks and the middle one is a ferrari 512 koni that can do 180 mph at 13 inches per second on a dyno....
You will notice the middle (ferrari shock) same type of shock in some respects as the 90s (twin tube no gas ) it has threads on the shaft.
The 90 series comes welded....if converted to threaded type it can be made with another little mod to accept the cilastio of the amg shock with spacers for ride and height adjustment....the hard way to go but the one that works for me.
Another way could be 550 shocks, I suspect they have the little cilastios also(a guess from driving one) ....to be verified soon,I will keep you posted.

Front reds two or even three stripe should do the job with 90s stock and better modified.

Your problem again should be lack of enough spring rate at front for your weight when loaded and not enough compression dampening from the front soft spx compression forces.
Important if the two above factors get done is to run enough shock on extension to control the new spring rate properly.

Another consideration also is front ride height if you go with the little extra spring rate of reds versus your yellow orange fronts depending on your front end weight is not to run to too much ride height which will effect your axle going left which screws up front geometry in many more ways than one making your trailing arms function in a way that is not good for proper handling as designed from the manufacturer....you might need a little longer panhard rod to keep it all good....I know some will say no problem but........

Is not easy is it?

Last again depending on your front end loaded weight the least involved way might be stock shocks with the amg cilastio installed inside for added spring rate in bigger bumps since the extension will be already proper for your stock springs and swap them as they wear out always transferring the amg cilastio with every change.
Since they are made for the lower g55 front height all you need is little spacers added at the bottom inside the shock to make them work at g500 front height.

Lowering your air pressure on your tires to 28 psi will help also a lot for general use unless you need to go much lower when you need a little more traction going very slow ....not too much side wall there but enough for most situations.....

Please do not hold me responsible for all this or go too fast .......that is what works for me....I hope it helps you.

Front amg 55k shocks with spacers inside will work also with your springs

If my bubble gets you confused please get your weight measured and pm me .....I am sure you can get to enjoy the bumps .....

Mario



(last photos 048.jpg)



(last photos 051.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments last photos 048.jpg (145KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments last photos 051.jpg (149KB - 0 downloads)
#191860 - in reply to #191857
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 7/1/2011 4:24 AM
512bbi
Expert




Date registered: Jan 2007
Location: North western US and Europe
Vehicle(s): 05G55kge,Range rover classic,clk55amg,ML 430
Posts: 1313
1000
RE: SACHS HD vs Koni HT SPX on W46

Tom

In order to answer your question if reds are stock springs for the 463, I have to say which 463?.......with how much weight.

The g55k does not have them stock and it weights the same with a 400 cdi thanos has which has them as stock springs at front.

MB will not give you the answer ......this is USA here .....liability that can make the mighty buck rules......so lets all be safe and do only what works safely by copying their engineering which is safe....right?

Just do not ask them why the new Gs do not have hitches allowed for towing.....

Mario
#191861 - in reply to #173711
Top of the page Bottom of the page
« View previous thread :: View next thread »
Page 3 of 7 <1234.055.056.05>
Forum Jump :
All times are EST.  The time is now 12:29:34 AM.

Execution: 0.515 seconds, 109 cached, 11 executed.