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ewikran
Veteran
Date registered: Jan 2009
Location: Tromso, Norway
Vehicle(s): W463 1997 300DT
Posts: 256
| Tool advise - drag link ends
I am in the middle of changing front suspension bushings but hit a difficulty with the drag link/tie rod ends in the process.
A cheap puller I bought snapped in two long before the ends loosened from their position.
I am in the need for some advise of what tool (make, part number, etc) to by that are strong enough to release these parts.
Preferably from a source that sells and ship international. |
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thanito
Veteran
Date registered: Aug 2009
Location: Greece
Vehicle(s): MB G400CDI, MB 300E-24, Mini Cooper S
Posts: 253
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
I would suggest Facom or Hazet tools, they are quite expensive but are for a lifetime.
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Wheel_wobble_cure.htm
Take a look on the link above
http://www.twenga.fr/dir-Jardin-et-Bricolage,Outillage-manuel,Extra... |
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ewalberg
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
did you use the tool to set up a preload in the pin and then hit it to break it free? I mention it because it was new learning for me that tool itself isn't necessarily designed to break it free on it's own, just by screwing it down. You're "supposed" to use the tool to set up a good pre-load and then smack it to break it free...
lykke til... |
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djdinaz
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Jun 2007
Location: Arizona
Vehicle(s): 03 G55
Posts: 439
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
I just did all of my rod ends a couple of months ago.
In this picture, I bought the first puller, it bent badly at the end. Picked up the second puller for about 60 bucks, and it stripped out after 1 joint -- granted, the factory recommended tool for the job looks similar to this one, though I suspect is of far superior quality. (Factory tool number is 601 589 04 33 00 : http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tool.jsp?toolno=601%20589%...).
Finally, I just used a 2 jaw puller rated for 7 tons I had in the bottom of my toolbox, and it worked without issue. On the steering arms/pitman arm the jaws actually have a small lip to work with and at about the point where I thought it was going to fly apart the joints finally popped loose.
Just last month I had to pull the joint at the pitman arm (to get room to pull the bolt for dropping the panhard rod) and I used it again without issue. Small pullers like that can be had just about anywhere tools are sold. However, having said that, if I ever split another boot, I am just going to order the factory tool from eBay, as it looks like it would make the job a piece of cake.
 (pullers.jpg)
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 pullers.jpg (29KB - 5 downloads)
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AlanMcR
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, CA, Los Altos
Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL
Posts: 3500
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
I've used the left most one many times. The trick is to tighten up the screw pin up to the point where you feel it might not take any more. Then hit the end of the screw pin with a hammer. The impact is what loosens the part. The tool is cheap and the process is immensely satisfying 
Edited by AlanMcR 6/28/2011 3:11 PM
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roughneck
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UK, Germany & USA
Vehicle(s): 270 cdi.300 GD 300 GE.lwb 300 GE.swb. Disco 2
Posts: 4398
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
Freezer spray, copper hammer,give it the shock treatment. |
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460332
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Europe
Vehicle(s):
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
The problem with shock treatment is that you have to build some support to avoid damaging the parts,
this is especially difficult on the pitman arm, you will also scratch paint, etc. With the tools listed below you still have
to shock the links loose with a small knock - but that's with less power/effort.
You could order them from eBay.de, it is called Kugelgelenk abdrücker or Kugelgelenk abziher
Remember there are different sizes on the pittman arm and the steering links.
I would buy the expensive stuff - they last!
eBay.com - search for a "Ball-Joint extractor", "ball joint" etc.
Measures for Geländewagen, Touareg, Cayenne
For opening a=30mm
Fork width e= 60mm
======== http://www.hazet.de/ ===========
Hans Hehl recommends this for the steering links:
Universal Kugelgelenkabzieher Hazet Nr. 779-1 (€ 80)
Fork opening : a=18-23 mm
Working length 65 mm
Pittman arm: Hazet 779-2
Gabelöffnung: a=34 mm
Spannbereich bis 70 mm
Hazet 1790-4
Gabelöffnung: a=30 mm
Spannbereich bis 65 mm
Hazet 1790-3
Gabelöffnung: a=40 mm
Spannbereich max 85 mm
Hazet 1790-6 - (gabel)
Maulöffnung: a= 36-40 mm
Spannbereich: 20-85 mm
Gabeltiefe: 35mm
========= KLANN =========
http://www.klann-online.de/en/Products/WebCatalogue.aspx
KL-0161-3
Fork opening: a= 29 mm
Working length: c= 55 mm
Fork width: b= 60 mm
KL-0161-4
Fork opening a= 40 mm
Working length: c= 80 mm
Fork width: b= 80 mm
KL-0320 (Bell type)
Fork opening a=27 mm (Mercedes G-Class 463)
Mercedes G-Class, Cayenne, Touareg
KL-0161-8 - open bow type, adjustable width.
Fork opening: a=18-45 mm
Working length: c=51 mm
Klann KL-0161-3
Fork opening: a= 29 mm
Working length: c=55 mm
Bredde bøyle b= 60 mm
G-Class, Cayenne, Touareg - Pitmann-arm:
Klann - KL-0165-23 - fork type
Fork opening: a= 30 mm
Working length: d=165 mm
Fork width e= 60 mm
======= GEDORE =========
8030570 1.72/3 (M18x1,5 x 80)
Fork opening: a=27 mm
Working length: b=56 mm
Fork width: c=60 mm
8030650 1.72/4 (G 1/218x110)
Fork opening: a=27 mm
Working length: b=56 mm
Fork width: c=60 mm
Gedore - fork type
8033240 1.73/3 32 € 285,-
Fork opening: a=32 mm
Working length: b=85 mm
Fork depth c=28 mm
========= KSTools ==========
http://www.bohrenfeldt.de/DIN_pdf/kstools/k11/09_Automobilwerkzeuge...
Page 530 - bow type, a= 18 mm - 45 mm
page 649 - LKW - other dimensions
Kukko - scroll down a bit
http://www.kukko.com/index.cfm/DE/products/3/
Other
http://www.etoolcart.com/search.aspx?find=ball+joint
http://www.etoolcart.com/mercedes-benz.aspx
http://www.toolss.com/wbstore/main.asp?LowCt=0&action=cat&cat=MERCE...
Edited by 460332 6/28/2011 6:23 PM
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autonovice
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Dec 2006
Location: New York City
Vehicle(s): '05 G55K, '92 350GDT
Posts: 684
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
shock treatment is good if the G is on the lift and you also have access
to an air gun or a newer electric hammer gun.
most DIY er like me only have access to a jack and few jack stands so
space is a premium to do any lower end jobs. and safety becomes a bigger
issue.
I sent mine out since as part of a package deal to get alignment done also.
I use the ball joint pickle fork with extra long handle, so the job can be done
without me being under the G if I really want to do it myself. I have this
tool and it is useful for the job. The only thing is your grease boot is
most likely damaged as the result.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=ball+joint+separat...
Edited by autonovice 6/28/2011 5:19 PM
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ewalberg
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Past: San Francisco. Present: Germany
Vehicle(s): 2000 g500
Posts: 1887
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
it was from alanmcr that i learned the shock treatment, i've done it at least 4 times, if not closer to 6 or 8 times. You're hitting the back of the head on the tool, so there's very little way of damaging anything. All i've got is jack stands and basic tools and and it definitely works. If you're using a tuning fork style separator, i totally agree you're going to end up trashing your rod end boots, as autonovice experienced below.
Edited by ewalberg 6/28/2011 5:25 PM
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G-AMG
G-Class DIY Host
Date registered: May 2006
Location: South Texas
Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
The "King" of the Puller World is Kukko.
Knowing Hazet, I "suspect" buy them from Kukko and Re-Label, like they do with alot of their items.
One Safety note: To prevent the links from "flying all over the place" like someone said, what you can do to prevent this is leave the Nut on the link So it is barely on, but enough to prevent it from Jumping out. |
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thanito
Veteran
Date registered: Aug 2009
Location: Greece
Vehicle(s): MB G400CDI, MB 300E-24, Mini Cooper S
Posts: 253
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
G-AMG - 6/29/2011 12:25 AM
The "King" of the Puller World is Kukko.
Knowing Hazet, I "suspect" buy them from Kukko and Re-Label, like they do with alot of their items.
One Safety note: To prevent the links from "flying all over the place" like someone said, what you can do to prevent this is leave the Nut on the link So it is barely on, but enough to prevent it from Jumping out.
And the "KING" of DIY is G-AMG! thumbs up  |
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G-AMG
G-Class DIY Host
Date registered: May 2006
Location: South Texas
Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
.
And the "KING" of DIY is G-AMG! thumbs up :biggrin:
Probably more like the Court Jester.... |
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AlanMcR
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, CA, Los Altos
Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL
Posts: 3500
| Never use a "pickle fork" style puller
My vote: never use a pickle fork. Aside from tearing the boots, the hammering that is needed to make those work will damage other suspension components. I have one and it's sole use now is for bludgeoning things. It should never get close to an MB ball joint.
Edited by AlanMcR 6/28/2011 6:19 PM
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hipine
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
460332 - 6/28/2011 2:52 PM
The problem with shock treatment is that you have to build some support to avoid damaging the parts...
One way to do that is to hold something very heavy against the side of the arm opposite the side you strike with a lighter hammer. The inertia of the large mass keeps the whole thing from moving much at all when the lighter mass strikes it and you get the pure shock effect that pops the taper-fit parts loose.
This is the way I've done it many times on the G and lots of other vehicles:
1- Preload the assembly with a tool that bears only on the thread end of the ball joint (leave the nut on to protect the threads and keep things captured at realese) and the arm.
2- Place something heavy, like the head of a 10 lb hammer, against one side of the arm (part the ball joint shank is stuck into)
3- Strike the opposite side of the arm with something light like a 1 lb ball peen hammer.
Pops 'em loose every time with no damage.
I wouldn't use a pickle fork type separator because it applies force to the ball joint housing which must then be transfered through the housing and ball seat to the shank of the ball portion which is held by the taper. Better to confine forces to only the solid shank of the ball component of the joint in my opinion. Less risk of damage to internal components in the ball joint. If you're throwing the joint away, of course it doesn't matter but I tend to need to separate them more often than I need to replace them.
Just my thoughts,
Good luck!
-Dave G. |
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Allister779
Date registered: Sep 2007
Location: Alberta
Vehicle(s): 1990 300GD
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
Long ago, a friend showed me a trick where he would tighten the nut up as far as he could with a wrench, then use an impact to take the nut off. Then with a puller (such as #2 in Djdinaz's photo) the ball joints popped off with only the slightest pull, or push depending how you look at it, far less than puller alone. I've only tried it once on the G and it seemed to work. But maybe I just got lucky and mine weren't frozen on there. |
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ewikran
Veteran
Date registered: Jan 2009
Location: Tromso, Norway
Vehicle(s): W463 1997 300DT
Posts: 256
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
Wow what a turn up. Thank you all for your response. I found what appears to be the factory tool here: http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm The price was not that bad so I may end up with this one. According to the link posted by djdinaz this tool is for both tie rod and drag link. On may then get away with just one tool. The preload and hit it approach seems to be the way to go. I will revert with the result after receiving new tools. |
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DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
ewikran - 6/29/2011 4:58 AM Wow what a turn up. Thank you all for your response. I found what appears to be the factory tool here: http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm The price was not that bad so I may end up with this one. According to the link posted by djdinaz this tool is for both tie rod and drag link. On may then get away with just one tool. The preload and hit it approach seems to be the way to go. I will revert with the result after receiving new tools. Be careful of Samstag. They can be way over priced. If you have the MB Part Number, you might want to see what your dealer can do. I did that recently on another part; and found - surprisingly - that the dealer price was about half of Samstag's price.
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kerry460
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: tasmania australia
Vehicle(s): 1984 300GD LWB WAGEN
Posts: 611
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
G,,day retensioning can crack a rusted frozen joint ,
not just a tie rod end.
kerry |
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ewikran
Veteran
Date registered: Jan 2009
Location: Tromso, Norway
Vehicle(s): W463 1997 300DT
Posts: 256
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
Thanks for the heads up.
It can be sourced for a lower price at : http://www.costplustools.com/Sir-Tools-BMW3029-Heavy-Duty-Separator_p_8714.html
But it turns out to be only 21.5mm in the opening and this is to small for the drag link/pittman arm. It may be the tool for the steering link.
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djdinaz
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Jun 2007
Location: Arizona
Vehicle(s): 03 G55
Posts: 439
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
The internal opening in the tool needs to only be as wide as the shaft of the rod end. Its the 'fat' part of the tool that needs to clear the pitman arm end.
The pin of the tool pushes up on the rod end shaft, see the attached picture for an example. Also, SIR who makes that BMW tool has the 3030 version, which has a 25.5 mm opening.
Edited by djdinaz 6/29/2011 11:52 AM
 (puller_in_use.jpg)
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puller_in_use.jpg (74KB - 2 downloads)
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