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oskar
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Sep 2006
Location: Lyons, CO
Vehicle(s): 1981 280GE, 2002 G500, 280SE 4.5, Audi A4 1.8T
Posts: 708
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
DUTCH - 6/29/2011 3:15 AM
Be careful of Samstag. They can be way over priced. If you have the MB Part Number, you might want to see what your dealer can do. I did that recently on another part; and found - surprisingly - that the dealer price was about half of Samstag's price
Correct. But in the moment they have the KL-0320 on sale - regular around 280.00
That thing should do
Klann KL-0320 Ball Joint Extractor $ 97.50 Cart
Item #: KL-0320 $97.50 USD 1 $97.50 USD
Oskar |
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ewikran
Veteran
Date registered: Jan 2009
Location: Tromso, Norway
Vehicle(s): W463 1997 300DT
Posts: 256
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
The order for Hazet 1779-37 and Hazet 1779-23 is made.
Looking forward to receive them to continue with the front bushing service. |
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dai
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
Posts: 2110
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
I have one of these and it works fine using the method that Dave G mentioned. Get some tension on it with the tool and put a heavy hammer against the backside of the arm and whack the opposite side with a hammer. It releases the tapered fitting parts without stressing out the tool.
A side note, when Richard worked on the front axle bearing service in my garage we didn't disconnect any of the link ends, the king pin caps were unbolted with that linkage intact. Worked fine on both sides, no issues.
 (Picture 5.png)
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 Picture 5.png (34KB - 2 downloads)
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ewikran
Veteran
Date registered: Jan 2009
Location: Tromso, Norway
Vehicle(s): W463 1997 300DT
Posts: 256
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
The tools has arrived and just had to laugh when unpacking. I clearly understand when you guys are saying that they are unbreakable.
Used the larger one to take the tie-rod of and it was a snap. On the left side I had to hit it gently with a hammer to get it loose after pre-stressing with the tool. On the right side it popped of with a little tightening of the tool. It is a blast working with proper tools. I have finished replacing the front bushings, ant it was really needed. The old ones was in a bad state.
On the down side I discovered that the ball links on both ends of the tie-rod had pronounced areas if wear. They moved relatively freely in the sockets, but wanted to move to a point where some play could be felt. This is the positions it was when on the car. Anyone that has a fix or is a completely new tie-rod required? The right ball link is crimped to the rod.
How would one determine if the ball links need to be replaced? How severe can the play be and still not be a problem? I do not have any vibrations in the steering wheel, which I would suspect due to excessive play. |
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kiwi_g
Veteran
Date registered: May 2006
Location: New Zealand
Vehicle(s): 1986 300GD 1986 190E 2.3 16V
Posts: 133
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
i tend to use the method of preloading the taper but i generally use a big lever of some sort i don't mind scratching my paint the i also position the wheel so i can hit the end of the taper directly that way i don't need to hold a big object on the other side and also remember don't be gentle |
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dai
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
Posts: 2110
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
The reason you hold a heavy hammer on the other side is that it flexes the forged metal and it will release the tapered fit part. It doesn't cause wear or problems with the ball socket part, it acts directly on the static connection. Hitting the other parts a lot can have unintended consequences.
-Dai |
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ontum
Veteran
Date registered: Nov 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle(s): 1979 300GDT Cabrio, 1994 W124 603
Posts: 131
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
I have all these pullers and what not only twenty feet away from me at work but never actually need them. If you plan on replacing your joint (like the tire rod) then just use a pickle fork attached to an air hammer. This only takes a second but does ruin the boot at minimum if you re-using the joint.
A big hammer and sometimes a long pry bar is all I ever need. I just hit the tapered area nice and hard a few times and it pops out. If gravity is working against you or its stuck then pry down on the link or control arm that is attached to the ball joint and then hit it hard with a big hammer. I work on a variety of suspensions everyday and this method has never failed me. I also used this method in my garage with limited tools only a few inches off the ground.
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Craig |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
Thanks to all for the input on this topic. I was just looking at getting a suitable tool for the job.
As it happens sometimes when researching something to death, you end up getting more confused.
Can someone please clarify if one MB workshop tool (as shown in the manual, attached) can do for both tie/track rods/drag links and Pitman arm, or must one get 2 differently-sized tools, as described below, of the scissor-type?
Thanks
460332 - 6/28/2011 9:52 PM
You could order them from eBay.de, it is called Kugelgelenk abdrücker or Kugelgelenk abziher
Remember there are different sizes on the pittman arm and the steering links.
I would buy the expensive stuff - they last!
eBay.com - search for a "Ball-Joint extractor", "ball joint" etc.
Measures for Geländewagen, Touareg, Cayenne
For opening a=30mm
Fork width e= 60mm
======== http://www.hazet.de/ ===========
Hans Hehl recommends this for the steering links:
Universal Kugelgelenkabzieher Hazet Nr. 779-1 (€ 80 )
Fork opening : a=18-23 mm
Working length 65 mm
Pittman arm: Hazet 779-2
Gabelöffnung: a=34 mm
Spannbereich bis 70 mm
Hazet 1790-4
Gabelöffnung: a=30 mm
Spannbereich bis 65 mm
Hazet 1790-3
Gabelöffnung: a=40 mm
Spannbereich max 85 mm
Hazet 1790-6 - (gabel )
Maulöffnung: a= 36-40 mm
Spannbereich: 20-85 mm
Gabeltiefe: 35mm
 (tool.jpg)
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tool.jpg (81KB - 6 downloads)
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4x4abc
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico
Vehicle(s): 02 G500
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
the tool shown in the manual 601.... will fit all steering linkages
only if you wanted to remove the pitman arm from the steering box (a very rare job), you would need the larger 318.... tool |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
Thank you - that's sorted then - now off to get a price from my friendly MB parts dept... |
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mre
Veteran
Date registered: Dec 2006
Location: Estonia
Vehicle(s): 463 300GE ´91
Posts: 169
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
I noticed that the disassembly was easy and could be done with two hammers and one hit, no special tool needed.
Now I'm wondering, what's the correct tightening torque for castle nut? |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
mre - 11/15/2011 1:32 PM
I noticed that the disassembly was easy and could be done with two hammers and one hit, no special tool needed.
Now I'm wondering, what's the correct tightening torque for castle nut?
That's good to know, when a repair can't wait. My local garage took 4 hours (his claim) to renew a drag link...I don't think he had all the tools 
This might help with torques..
 (axle torques low.jpg)
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axle torques low.jpg (161KB - 6 downloads)
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mre
Veteran
Date registered: Dec 2006
Location: Estonia
Vehicle(s): 463 300GE ´91
Posts: 169
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
Nadd, thanks for torque spec.
The removal of old cotter pins was the biggest headache, those were rusted-jammed for good.
Removal of the first took 15-20 minutes, second ~10 minutes. |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
Anytime 
You reminded me, I need to get some other spares besides the dust caps/rubber boots, best not re-use old cotter pins. |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| RE: Tool advise - drag link ends
4x4abc - 11/15/2011 1:10 AM
the tool shown in the manual 601.... will fit all steering linkages
only if you wanted to remove the pitman arm from the steering box (a very rare job), you would need the larger 318.... tool
Thanks just did the job, removing both tie rod and drag link did not take more than a few minutes, that tool is amazing - despite the price! |
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tj4tj4
Veteran
Date registered: Jul 2009
Location: Das Hinterland, Wisconsin
Vehicle(s): G550 (2014); G55 (Europa 2000)
Posts: 277
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
Sir Tools BMW offers a "Heavy Duty Seperator" (Model 3029) with a base-opening of 21.5mm and a "Heavy Duty Extractor" (Model 3030) with a base-opening of 25.5mm.
http://www.costplustools.com/Sir-Tools-BMW-3029-Heavy-Duty-Separato...
http://www.costplustools.com/Sir-Tools-BMW-3030-Heavy-Duty-Extracto...
They are around $75 bucks each.
Is the larger item okay for both tie rod and drag links?
Or would I be better off buying the Klan extractor, "KLANN, Lower Wishbone heavy duty Ball Joint extractor. With 27mm fork, for Chassis W116, W123, W126. Highest quality German tool." which is normally $300 and on clearance for $97.50 Seems like it might be a little large for the job?
Scroll down to KL-0320
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#kl0320 |
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nadd
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UAE, Dubai
Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys
Posts: 1285
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
ewikran - 7/24/2011 10:56 AM
Used the larger one to take the tie-rod of and it was a snap. On the left side I had to hit it gently with a hammer to get it loose after pre-stressing with the tool. On the right side it popped of with a little tightening of the tool. It is a blast working with proper tools. I have finished replacing the front bushings, ant it was really needed. The old ones was in a bad state.
Question please, is the small one 1779-23 (opening 23mm) too small for the tie rods, necessitating the big one 1779-37 (opening 37mm)? |
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geewag
Regular
Date registered: Apr 2014
Location: Tallahassee, FL. - USA
Vehicle(s): --2002 G500 / 2014 MDX / 2004 V70 2.5T Wagon...
Posts: 59
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
I ordered this BMW3028 Sir Tools Heavy Duty Separator from SamsTag and it indeed is too small to do the tie rod ball joints. I'm seeking an alternative. Am going to check on the drag link to see if it will fit.
I'd rather have the right part than the wham bam thank you mam method.
Must be a way... |
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Razon
Date registered: Jul 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle(s): 1986 280ge Cabrio, 617A, 5sp manual
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
I use the tool similar to the one in the last picture.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Steering-And-Suspension/Universa...
It's small, works every time, doesn't damage the boot, the threaded end fits PERFECT in the cup and I never had to freeze or do "shock treatment". I carry it in my travel toolbox. Well exceeded my expectations.
Two claw puller always slips.... hard to apply torque and don't have it slip.
Three claw puller.... not sure if it would physically work, but it'll have the same problem as the 2 claw.
Edited by Razon 4/15/2014 6:43 PM
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Titus Pullo
Elite Veteran
Date registered: May 2007
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Vehicle(s): '90 Wolf 240GD, '06 G270 CDI.
Posts: 1010
| Re: Tool advise - drag link ends
Razon - 4/15/2014 6:37 PM I use the tool similar to the one in the last picture. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Steering-And-Suspension/Universa... It's small, works every time, doesn't damage the boot, the threaded end fits PERFECT in the cup and I never had to freeze or do "shock treatment". I carry it in my travel toolbox. Well exceeded my expectations. Two claw puller always slips.... hard to apply torque and don't have it slip. Three claw puller.... not sure if it would physically work, but it'll have the same problem as the 2 claw. |
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