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bimmerc Veteran Date registered: Jun 2009 Location: Alta, Norway Vehicle(s): 1992 300GE swb Portals, 85 300GD STT Cab swb Posts: 102 | ABS - changing hydraulic unit My 1992 300GE needs a new ABS hydraulic unit as all 4 solenoid valves are stuck. The ABS has not been working the last 6 years according to the last two previous owners. I have tried forcing them to open by knocking on them and applying 12V directly to the solenoid but to no avail. Now I have found a used module on eBay. My concern is if there are specific procedures to follow when replacing unit with regard to getting the air out of the system. The ABS system, as I understand it, is separated from the regular brake system until you switch it ON (simplified). That means the circuit is not triggered while you fill brake fluid and get air out of the main system. My plan is to apply pressure to the brake pedal and trigger the four solenoid valves one by one manually by applying 12 volts directly to the solenoids. This will let fluid into the valves? Or should I assume that there is fluid in the valves given it is a used unit? I will remove plugs and relays from the ABS unit while doing this to isolate the solenoid valves from the circuit. Battery and ABS ecu will also be disconnected. Am I on the right track or missing out on something? I am an electronics engineer and have played with a working ABS hydraulic unit from a w124 sedan (3 channel vs w463 4 channel). And of course watching endless YouTube videos to get an understanding of how it works. BUT I have not tested my knowledge on anyone who knows the system. I only think I know! And that, I know, is dangerous. | ||
#223553 | |||
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nadd Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: UAE, Dubai Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys Posts: 1285 | Re: ABS - changing hydraulic unit In my limited experience I have never heard of a Mercedes ABS unit fail, but from changing the brake lines myself on a 1991 300GE I recall there was only 1 line going to the rear axle, meaning it is a 3-channel system (2 front 1 rear). Maybe the later 463s are 4 channel but the earlier ones were not far as I recall. 1 brake line goes to the rear load proportioning valve (ALB?) that then splits along the axle left and right. If I get a chance to look on WIS (sorry different laptop) I will see if there is any further information on the operating principles of ABS or specific instructions for replacement. | ||
#223554 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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bimmerc Veteran Date registered: Jun 2009 Location: Alta, Norway Vehicle(s): 1992 300GE swb Portals, 85 300GD STT Cab swb Posts: 102 | RE: ABS - changing hydraulic unit My 1992 has a 4 channel system. the 3 channel system was introduced in 1993 on the 463. Sorry for not making the obvious clear, mate! I forgot to say that I will apply 12 volts to the pump when I activate the solenoid valves. | ||
#223556 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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bimmerc Veteran Date registered: Jun 2009 Location: Alta, Norway Vehicle(s): 1992 300GE swb Portals, 85 300GD STT Cab swb Posts: 102 | ABS - Hydraulic valves testing While waiting for the replacement unit I have played with the one not working. The valves are badly stuck and even applying 24+ volts to the solenoids could not persuade valves to move. As far as procedure for bleeding the system after replacing unit I get different suggestions. And that is exactly what it is: Suggestions. I know that the worst thing that can happen is that I do not get the ABS back but the brakes will work perfectly after bleeding the system the normal way. So unless anyone comes up with something different I will just replace the unit after first checking that solenoids and valves are working and take the next steps from there. The only thing I cannot test properly is the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) but I have been assured that I receive a working unit with the Hydraulic module. Both comes from same car. Wish me luck! | ||
#223610 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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nadd Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: UAE, Dubai Vehicle(s): G500 2016 LHD, numerous Chevys Posts: 1285 | RE: ABS - changing hydraulic unit Here's my first attempt at attaching instructions for bleeding from WIS. I believe 4 channel ABS is more advanced than 3 channel, so why would MB go backwards with time! Edited by nadd 8/29/2014 12:57 PM Attachments ---------------- 2014-8 Bleed brake system.pdf (542KB - 9 downloads) 2014-8 Carrying out bleeding operation.pdf (355KB - 8 downloads) 2014-8 Remove Install ABSunit.pdf (537KB - 8 downloads) | ||
#223674 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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AlanMcR Expert Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: US, CA, Los Altos Vehicle(s): G300DT E300DT 230SL Posts: 3500 | RE: ABS - changing hydraulic unit nadd - 8/29/2014 9:46 AM ... I believe 4 channel ABS is more advanced than 3 channel, so why would MB go backwards with time! Most of the braking is done up front and a three channel system is simpler and cheaper. Simpler controller, fewer brake lines, etc. Also, with the 96 model they moved the function of the rear brake modulator into the ABS computer calling the feature EBV (transliterated as electronic brake splitter) | ||
#223675 - in reply to #223674 | |||
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bimmerc Veteran Date registered: Jun 2009 Location: Alta, Norway Vehicle(s): 1992 300GE swb Portals, 85 300GD STT Cab swb Posts: 102 | ABS Light out - Finally Today I received my Ebay purchased ABS Hydraulic Module and the ABS Electronic Control Unit. 3 hours later: The dreaded ABS fault light is off for the first time in more than 6 years according to last two PO's. I knew the hydraulic ubnit was bad but had no means of checking the ECU. I did buy a replacement and I needed it! No hokus pokus with bleeding the system. Normal bleeding procedure got all crap out of the hydraulic unit. Road test confirmed good working ABS!! I have spent a lot of hours trying to understand the ABS system and it is quite rewarding when you finally solve the puzzle. My guess is that the ECU failed first and then the solenoid valves just got stuck after years of inactivity. The lesson has to be: Repair the fault asap to avoid further deteoration of the system. Brake fluid should be changed periodically. I change every 3-4 years. The breakfluid in my Ebay module was long overdue for change and I hope it did not do too much damage before I got it flushed today. | ||
#223765 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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Gilamonster Veteran Date registered: Sep 2013 Location: New Mexico Vehicle(s): G #1 (mix of a 460, 461 & 463), #2 is a 2000 G500 Posts: 151 | RE: ABS - changing hydraulic unit Good job! Did you use a power bleeder? If you didn't I'd strongly recommend that you buy one. I purchased the Motiv Power Bleeder for less than $40 online. If you want your brakes to work at their best I believe it is the way to go. It also works great on the differential locking hydraulics. It makes bleeding/flushing the system an easy one man job. | ||
#223767 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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bimmerc Veteran Date registered: Jun 2009 Location: Alta, Norway Vehicle(s): 1992 300GE swb Portals, 85 300GD STT Cab swb Posts: 102 | RE: ABS - changing hydraulic unit Thanks! I am very pleased with my work on the ABS! No, I had to do it the old fashion way with the bleeding line into a bottle of fluid. Takes a bit longer and probably uses more fluid than using air pressure, but it works. I will order a new power bleeder as my old one stopped working. | ||
#223785 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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louwdj Veteran Date registered: Feb 2007 Location: Johannesburg South Africa Vehicle(s): 89 W460 230GE 5 door; 82 W123 230e; 99 W210 E240 Posts: 139 | Re: ABS - changing hydraulic unit Glad you came right. As an aside, my W460's manual says the brake fluid should be changed annually. A few years ago, I bought a W210 sedan, which the previous owner was proud to tell me, was serviced by the main dealership, probably the biggest in the country, all its life. They, I found out, in 8 years, never changed the brake fluid. Fortunately, I had no need to do emergency braking and with our relatively low humidity, There was no decernable damage to the brake components. Then again, the Operator's Manual of the R-110 International Motor Trucks (we had a 1955 model) states that if this vehicle is to be stored for (believe it or not!) a period exceeding three days, the fuel tanks should be drained, the engine run until all fuel is consumed, the float bowl be drained and the fuel pump sediment bowl of the fuel pump also be emptied!! Fuel gumming must have been real bad in those days! | ||
#224007 - in reply to #223553 | |||
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