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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
Please can someone enlighten me re what type of primer and paint I could use on a chassis that has been sandblasted back to bare metal.
I am not sure that powdercoating is really an option and was then wondering what I can apply by air spraypainting.
I suppose I wouold like to know what MB would advise after chassis repair work.
Thanks.
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G-AMG
G-Class DIY Host
Date registered: May 2006
Location: South Texas
Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
Here is a Fantastic Reference posted by H1LM002G55 a few years ago:
https://portal.aftersales.i.daimler.com/public/content/asportal/en/w...
I notice the Manuals for most of the M-B Approved brands are in numberous languages.... Sans Afrikaans, though!! ha ha
I have switched to the Brand "STANDOX" since I know this is what they are spraying at the Sindelfingen Plant, these days.
As a complete Nooob at painting? Even "I" can get a decent result when following the Standox Manual in the Above Link.
Here is an example of my results: http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php?tid=20038&po... |
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bram_r
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2007
Location: the Netherlands
Vehicle(s): 1984 MB 280GE, 1982 MB 300GD, 1986 Subaru XT 4WD
Posts: 1659
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
I believe the original Ral color for the G chassis is Ral 7350, but I have to verify my source.
Edited by bram_r 9/5/2014 7:06 PM
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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
Good stuff. Thanks! Have downloaded the SH spec. as they are well repped here.
The chassis is sandblasted back to bare metal now.
I am also trying to get my head around whether or not I will allow my cab body to be sandblasted back to bare metal or not. I have seen really bad distortion from this but the man who would do it for me gets a very good result. It would save me tons of time but mainly I like the idea of applying the paint back to an MB type engineered degree of rustproofing from bare metal. |
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petermerle
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Cape Town ( deep south )
Vehicle(s): W460 *1, W123 *2, W124
Posts: 1315
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
No need to grit blast if foundation is sound. If you need to grit blast consider soda blasting - google it . |
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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
petermerle - 9/8/2014 1:37 PM
No need to grit blast if foundation is sound. If you need to grit blast consider soda blasting - google it .
I took the bonnet in today for a test run at the sandblaster. I also had a paint man come to see me today, and so I am beginning to understand base coats a bit better and I really like what I learnt regarding some of the coatings available on the market. Jotun paints for example.
But I think that the main reason for considering blasting is that I hate sandpaper. |
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jewdean
Regular
Date registered: Feb 2011
Location: vancouver island
Vehicle(s): 91 300ge, 65 230sl, 1950 170 p.u., k1300gt
Posts: 52
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
Epoxy primer is about the best product to use on your frame, it can be sprayed rite over the bare steel and no need for a top coat,You will need at least 2 coats, it's very scratch and chip resistant, epoxy coatings dont stand up well to UV's, so if you use it on bumpers or anything that is exposed to sun it will need to be top coated or it will go chalky . epoxy is what is used on the hull of steel ships all over the world, it's also what is used in water and fuel tank, for submersion 24 mil.dry is the magic number but for a frame like yours 5-10 mil. dry is all the protection you will ever need, if you are using a cup gun or pressure pot you will probably need to thin it a fair bit to get it to spray
and in that case I would put 3 coats on the frame. Jotun has good products as does Hempel and dozens of other paint manufacturers, marine supply stores are a good source for industrial coatings automotive shops are usually way more expensive and want to sell you a complicated system for a lot of money but you dont need it, I am a industrial painter I have painted everything from coast guard icebreakers, giant fuel tanks and potable water tanks to railway equipment and the specs are almost always the same 24 mil. submersion 9mill for the rest.
Hope that helps Dean |
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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
It helps a lot, thanks Dean. I will go with the Jotun Jotamastic 90 with a black tint.
I first have some remedial welding to do on it, after which the Jotun rep says I then need to wash it with a good degreasing alkali, rinse and dry and then paint two coats using a 2.0 nozzle.
May I ask what you would recommend for the body panels assuming they were bare metal with some polyester filled dents and a few welded rust repairs? I thought to use the same Jotamastic but with a top coat??? |
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jewdean
Regular
Date registered: Feb 2011
Location: vancouver island
Vehicle(s): 91 300ge, 65 230sl, 1950 170 p.u., k1300gt
Posts: 52
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
Yes you can use the the epoxy on the body, I often brush it on small areas, It really works well as a sealer over welds, rust repairs and in body seams, let it cure overnight, sand it with 80 grit and then you can put filler over that.
Once the epoxy is cured you can put any primer or top coat over it, just make sure you sand it first.
Dean |
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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
jewdean - 9/11/2014 7:30 AM
Yes you can use the the epoxy on the body, I often brush it on small areas, It really works well as a sealer over welds, rust repairs and in body seams, let it cure overnight, sand it with 80 grit and then you can put filler over that.
Once the epoxy is cured you can put any primer or top coat over it, just make sure you sand it first.
Dean
Magic. I will bump this thread when I've tried it.
Thanks again. |
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fkhawajah
Member
Date registered: Jul 2007
Location: DUBAI, United Arab Emirates
Vehicle(s): mercedes 300 CE,280GE modified to 400GE
Posts: 48
| RE: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
I did mine with MIPA , in your case if it is sand blasted to bare metal here is it from MIPA paint system its good product i have used completelly on my W 460, if available in your location.
1st Step Wash primer (mipa Aktivprimer)
2nd step Epoxy primer (EP-Grundierfiller_lang)
3 Mipa final top coat (2K-PUR-Acryl-HS-Chassislack)
this is best solution against salt water best protection check tech data sheets for your self .
check on google tech data sheets for this products.or you can go with spies hecker equivalent. this is an by the way oem solution.
yeah for Top coat instead of 2K-PUR-Acryl-HS-Chassislack you can go with (BodyCoatWBS_lang) this one stone chip resistant under coat. but the orginal what i have found after seaching alot is they use 2k-pur acryl-hs this is the best longest tough lasting used by oem.
feel free to ask if need further details on appyling
iam psoting link of website here for you to search verify.
http://www.mipa-paints.com/1/products/autolacke/
you can go with glasurit as well ,or spies hecker they bit expensive.
regards
faisal
Attachments
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 2K-Acryl-HS-Chassislack.pdf (76KB - 2 downloads)
Aktivprimer.pdf (72KB - 2 downloads)
BodyCoatWBS_lang.pdf (23KB - 1 downloads)
EP-Grundierfiller_lang.pdf (24KB - 3 downloads)
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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
Thanks Faisal,
I will check it out. I have already committed on the chassis paint but I am still far from doing the body.
I am not sure Mipa is here but I will Google it. I live in a dry place, probably like you, but if the car has lasted 34 years on its OEM paint then I want to do something as good for the next 34. |
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Boy G
Expert
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Bushveld, South Africa
Vehicle(s): Diesel G's: 617A and 602
Posts: 1683
| Re: Chassis / frame paint and primer info needed.
I now have a sandblasted G chassis and body back on the farm. The blasting is very well done. My initial fears about warping panels were unfounded. Some PO did a color change and the dents under the old paint were lead filled. i have some small rust holes to repair and I think I might try and learn how to lead fill to match it . Just for fun.
I hope to get some time to do the spring mount repair in the next weeks and then the painting can start. I really think I can do this one in less than five years. |
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