Aircruiser - 12/2/2014 10:42 AM

The threaded jumpseat mounting points will be there and would be a good solution for mounting your boxes. I made a butcher paper template of the hole locations if you want it. If you want to remove the interior panels and mark the hole locations on the back side of said pannels, using a pencil with eraser dabed in paint, shortend and stuck in threaded mount points. I used a step drill and a punch for final hole alignment. I have pictures of the process if you would like.

Those ground cables like to corrode between the battery negative/body mount and from below the body/frame. A little chemical and mechanical cleaning followed by some spray protectant has worked wonders for me in that area.

EDIT: added pictures, the last one is a unused project that may work for you, it is designed to be a level surface to mount an aux. batt. or jerry can?, just gathering dust now.

WEBIII - 12/2/2014 3:01 PM


Thank you for the excellent pictures! Was this work that you did for your fridge installation?

I would definitely like to borrow that template. If you'll pm me your address, I'll mail you a large stamped envelope to send it in.

Thanks for the offer on the platform but I don't think I can use it because the bottom of my speaker box is contoured to fit the curvature of the wheel well.

Thanks to you and H1LM002G55 for the advice!

Aircruiser - 12/2/2014 9:30 PM

No worries, I'll just send it to you. I will send you a pm.

It is reversible so you could drill each side if you want to. The alignment markings are set for the curve apexes of the interior pannel. You would have to share the same faith that I had when I started drilling my pilot holes, "poke and pray". It did work quite well. If your not feeling confident, Alan's method or the pencil method will work.

H1LM002G55 - 12/2/2014 4:15 PM

I would also use a Neutrik Speakon plug for quick connect/disconnect of the speaker enclosure...

Boy G - 12/2/2014 10:18 PM

Sorry to hi jack a bit, do one of you have a handy picture of the cover of the battery box please? Looks like a good possible mod for a 460 hidey hole.

Aircruiser - 12/2/2014 11:42 AM

The threaded jumpseat mounting points will be there and would be a good solution for mounting your boxes. I made a butcher paper template of the hole locations if you want it. If you want to remove the interior panels and mark the hole locations on the back side of said pannels, using a pencil with eraser dabed in paint, shortend and stuck in threaded mount points. I used a step drill and a punch for final hole alignment. I have pictures of the process if you would like.

Those ground cables like to corrode between the battery negative/body mount and from below the body/frame. A little chemical and mechanical cleaning followed by some spray protectant has worked wonders for me in that area.

EDIT: added pictures, the last one is a unused project that may work for you, it is designed to be a level surface to mount an aux. batt. or jerry can?, just gathering dust now.

greynolds - 12/3/2014 9:23 PM


Thanks for posting this info with pictures. Some questions for you:

1) Do you happen to know if a 2014 G550 should still have the threaded holes behind the panel?

2) How hard is it to remove the interior panels - as in are they interlocked with other panels like on a lot of vehicles or are these nice and easy to (carefully) pull off?

3) Is the height of the L channel you attached to the lower threaded holes the right height so that a plywood shelf makes for a level (or at least pretty close to level) platform with the rear seats folded forward? If so, that would be a great solution for when I finally get around to a more permanent solution for my shelf which currently just sits on the wheel wells.

4) Where did you get that L channel you used and what size is it?

Aircruiser - 12/4/2014 3:16 PM
Here you go.

2) The panel removal is straight forward. You will have to remove the rear seat belt upper anchor point, the trim piece around the rear door, the panel is held on with a few plastic anchors.

Aircruiser - 12/4/2014 3:16 PM
3) The aluminum angle was from Lowes, you can find it at any hardware store, and it is the correct hight for a level sleeping platform made from 1/2, 3/4" plywood or other materials.

Aircruiser - 12/4/2014 3:16 PM
Here are a few pictures of a mock up for a carbon/kevlar composite shelf. If you do decide to go this route, the single piece shelf is rather a tight fit getting it in through the second row doors. Millimeters count.

Aircruiser - 12/4/2014 3:16 PM


Here you go.

1) I am not sure. My guess is that they will be there.

2) The panel removal is straight forward. You will have to remove the rear seat belt upper anchor point, the trim piece around the rear door, the panel is held on with a few plastic anchors.

greynolds - 4/27/2015 10:00 AM
1) In case any one else is looking to do this with a late model G550, the holes are still behind the panels (I only took the driver side panel off, but would assume the passenger side is the same). However, they're just holes - there aren't any nuts behind them or threads in the holes. So one would have to either weld a nut on behind the holes, or install a rivnut or similar into each hole. I haven't had great luck with rivnuts in the past, so I'm hesitant to go that route and welding doesn't seem like a good idea in that space (nor do I have the skills or tools anyway). Would something like JB Weld work for this? Perhaps with a nut welded to a fender washer and then JB Weld the fender washer to the back of the panel behind the hole? If anybody has any good ideas on how to get a nut installed that will hold nice and tight, I'm all ears. In case anyone is wondering, the panel is too thin to just thread the hole.

greynolds - 4/28/2015 6:33 PM


In case aircruiser is still following this thread, I wonder if there might be enough room behind the panel for a nut to fit between the panel and the steel wall with the holes. If so, I could presumably pass the bolts through the steel wall from the inside, hold them in place with a nut, reinstall the panel, and then mount the L channel over the bolt and use another nut (and washer) on the outside to hold it in place. If I use a bolt that's just long enough, I could use a cap nut to neatly cover the threads if I ever remove the L channel.