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| Floobydust Veteran Date registered: Mar 2014 Location: Massachusetts, USA Vehicle(s): 1995 E320 Cabrio, 2003 G500, 2000 SL500, 1980 TR8 Posts: 284  | LED DRL Install I wasn't really thinking about changing the lighting on my G, but I got a set of the 55-Tech LED DRLs for almost nothing, so I eventually decided to give them a try. Since my G is tektite grey (753) and the surrounds we're black, the hardest part of this was painting them to match. It turns out that for tektite grey, even that expensive Glasurit paint fades over time. They're still not perfect, but rather than spend more time and money trying to get it perfect, I just want to see if I like the look. The lights came with no documentation and looked like they had been installed before so I did some searching on the net and the forums. I found the basic installation instructions, but they are "generic" and not specific to the G. I found a lot of questions about how to wire them on the forums and a few suggestions as to how people have done it. They didn't appeal to me for various reasons, such as having to bring wiring through the firewall, not getting the proper dimming or integration with the original lights, so I came up with the following. The method I used takes advantage of the presence of the +12 feed to the aux water pump motor. The pump (not much different that a W124 pump) and its connector is located on the right inner fender well. This is electrically hot only when the ignition switch is in the run position which exactly when you want full bright DRLs. The climate control module monitors the pump current, but it does so via the return line, so the extra current being used won't be seen by the controller. All wiring is done in the engine compartment and the right fender well and the DRLs work as one would expect in conjunction with various lighting modes. This should work for an G equipped with an aux water pump (heater booster). There are two configurations- one is very easy and gives function as fully bright DRLs during the day and dimmed when the exterior lamps are on. The other adds DRL illumination when the truck is unlocked at at night. I have posted the schematics and some photos of what I did. A few notes to start with: - I chose to solder (something i have been doing for over 40 years) to various connection points. The connectors can be easily damaged by excessive heat, so if you are not experienced with soldering, use a different connection method. - I used bullet style connectors at nearly every connection interface for easy of repair/ troubleshooting. The two shown in the schematics are the only ones that I think are really necessary and the rest are your call. Also, I drew them wrong in the schematic - the female side should always be on the powered side of the connection. - Rubber grommets where wires pass through sheet metal (I used only existing holes) are an absolute must. - Lastly, current budget on the aux water pump circuit is pretty tight, so I would not use this method for anything other than the 55Tech LED DRLs or LEDs that have a similar draw The 55Tech units operate in constant power mode, consuming about 6 watts at full bright and about 2 watts dimmed. The translates to about 500 mA at 12-14 volts and about 750 mA at 8-10 volts. Current draw is about 200 mA dimmed. Pictures: 1. Basic schematic. The DRL instructions say to connect the "dimming" lead to the headlight feed, which is asinine because this will cause the DRLs to flash bright with the high beams. One needs to either connector to both high and low beam via a diode "OR" gate or connect them to the parking light circuit because they are always one with either high or low beam. I chose the later for simplicity and to avoid strange interactions with any PWM the SAM might be doing. When connected as shown here, the DRLs will be fully bright when the key is in the "run" position and will be dimmed when the key is in the "run" position AND the parking lights are on. All power for the DRLs is provided by the aux pump circuit. 2. Optional schematic. This version adds a diode "OR" date so that they can be powered either via the aux pump circuit or the parking light circuit. The DRLs will operate as above, but will also be illuminated in the dimmed mode anytime the parking lights are on, regardless of the key position. Therefore they will illuminate when the truck is unlocked/locked at night and the entry/exit lights illuminate. This also means one can eliminate the "city lights" in the head lights with the appropriate 39 ohm, 5W dummy load resistors if so desired. Power for running at full power comes via the diode OR from the aux pump circuit and power the LED DRLs in dimmed mode when the key is not on comes from the parking lamp circuit. Note that this connection method guarantees that the LED DRLs will always be in dimmed mode when powered only by parking lamp circuit so as not to trigger a lamp fault code. 3. I made a connection to the hot side of the parking light socket to provide the "dimming" signal/current, again using a bullet connector. 4. Here is the diode "OR" gate I made. Any 1 amp or greater, 50 PIC or great greater diode can be used here. 5. Here I tap into the connector that feeds the aux pump. They are easy to disassemble as make extra connections to (I re-soldered this one after I took the picture). 6. Putting it all together. I got anal retentive and made a bracket for the LED driver module that attaches to the same bolts that hold the aux pump on, but the module could be just tie wrapped to the intake drain hose. Note the rubber grommet I added in the factory hole (in the black circle). 7. Viola - all done. I put a piece of tape over the ambient light sensor so I could fool the truck into turning on the exit/entry lights when I unlocked it. The DRLs work perfectly. The whole thing took me a couple of hours (it actually took longer to do this post!). I hope someone finds this useful. - FD (1s Basic Schematic.jpg) (2s Optional Schematic.jpg) (Parking-s.jpg) (3 Connection-s.jpg) (Assembly-s.jpg) (Unlock in Dark.jpg) Attachments ----------------  1s Basic Schematic.jpg (54KB - 3 downloads) 2s Optional Schematic.jpg (63KB - 1 downloads) Parking-s.jpg (290KB - 3 downloads) 3 Connection-s.jpg (270KB - 4 downloads) Assembly-s.jpg (242KB - 3 downloads) Unlock in Dark.jpg (615KB - 4 downloads) | |
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| NHDave Extreme Veteran Date registered: Dec 2013 Location: Seacoast NH. Vehicle(s): 2004 AMG Posts: 464  | ||
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| g-wagging Member Date registered: Jan 2012 Location: Southern California Vehicle(s): 2005 G500 Posts: 22 | ||
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| Floobydust Veteran Date registered: Mar 2014 Location: Massachusetts, USA Vehicle(s): 1995 E320 Cabrio, 2003 G500, 2000 SL500, 1980 TR8 Posts: 284 | RE: LED DRL Install Since I am looking at a transfer case replacement in the near future, my wallet, and therefore my project budget, is definitely stunted. So, instead of going the Depot headlight route, I just replaced my Halogen lamps with a Chinese CREE H4/9003 LED conversion kit and a set of CREE LED "CAN BUS" replacement lamps. The light output isn't as "sharp" as the polyellipsoidal HID headlight level, but is is pretty darn close! And it is easily double that of the original halogen bulbs and the price can't be beat - $60 bucks for everything. All the bulb color temperatures match, and I have experienced no bulb out error messages whatsoever! Certainly one of the best bang-for-the-buck mods I have made on the G. (LED headlights and city lights.jpg) Attachments ---------------- LED headlights and city lights.jpg (234KB - 9 downloads) | |
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| H1LM002G55 Expert Date registered: Mar 2010 Location: S Florida / Geneva / Jeddah Vehicle(s): 500 GE, G55, LM002, H1 Posts: 1796  | ||
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| bimmerc Veteran Date registered: Jun 2009 Location: Alta, Norway Vehicle(s): 1992 300GE swb Portals, 85 300GD STT Cab swb Posts: 102 | RE: LED DRL Install I, too, did install the Cree H4 Led Lights at a price of less than $60. So far they work well with a huge improvement in light! I have, however, ordered a second set of bulbs at twice the cost because you can fit the dust seal without cutting it first.  | |
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