Don't do it.  Summary:

• They will be brighter
• The light will spray everywhere because of poor focus
• Unless you want to live with people flashing their highbeams at you all day, you'll need to adjust the lights way down, meaning you can't see.
  

More discussion and some alternatives here:

http://clubgwagen.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6857

As I pointed out in the description, the odd blotchy parts are out of view of the driver or any occupant who doesn't have their eyeball pressed up to the upper edge of the G windshield.  In practice, the illumination is excellent, with little light wasted in the foreground.  Taking the example of the vehicle that cut me off, those headlights waste a lot of light on the asphalt right in front of the car, some of which the driver can't even see.  Sure it makes some bright pools of light, but by the time an object is that close its too late.

The bluish tint is my main complaint.  I understand why they are choosing to go for a high color temperature.  Still don't like it.

Disclosure: I'm in the LED business these days (recent job change) and we do automotive.  However, our LEDs are not in the Pilot/Noldens.  I'm pretty sure they aren't in the PIAAs either.

Absolutely.  The drive camera cranks up the contrast in night mode.  Just look around the images, everything has harsh sharp edges.  As a result any variations in the light pattern are grossly exaggerated. As for a third party evaluation: I picked my son from the airport, when I flipped on the lights his first comment was "wow, what did you do?".

"White" LEDs operate a bit like a fluorescent light in that they are a short wavelength monochrome light emitter that is phosphor down converted to a broad color spectrum.  The underlying LED emits "Royal Blue" which is about 445nm, pretty close to UV.  That is the blue spike seen below.   (Actual fluorescent tubes start off as mercury vapor lamps, which are an even shorter wavelength, closer to UV color).  Layered on top of the LED is a secret sauce of phosphors that absorb the 445nm light and fluoresce in other colors, that is the rainbow below.  These colors are always longer wavelengths (lower energy) than the pump wavelength.  Each photon that gets down converted loses a bit of energy, the warmer the light, the more energy is lost in that photon. 

The primary measures of white LEDs are lumens/watt, which is a measure of how bright it looks, and color rendering index, CRI, which is a measure of how close to ideal sunlight it looks.  Headlights emphasize raw lumens being thrown down the road, so CRI is sacrificed on the alter of lumens/watt.  And the best way to boost Lum/W is to do less down converting.  High Lum/W has a secondary benefit: Every electron forced through the LED turns into light or heat, the more light thrown out, the less waste heat needs to be dealt with.  Heat is a big deal in LEDs, a typical high power LED is about 1mm square and supports as much as 10 watts.  That heat needs to be kept down below critical values, otherwise the magic smoke leaks out.

So, you ask, why fool around with all this phosphor? Why not just mix red, green and blue LEDs to make a pleasing white?  The simple answer is that red and green LEDs are quite inefficient and suffer from heat related problems.  So much so that some of those ultra bright LED tail lights you see are actually royal blue phosphor converted to red or amber.   Another reason is that many lighting applications require sharp focus, and without expensive and lossy optics, three separate LEDs would project a multicolored light at the fringes.

Typical white LED spectral distribution