|
sean
Member
Date registered: Dec 2015
Location: austin texas United States
Vehicle(s): 88 300gd 460 swb right hand 85 280ge 617a turbo di
Posts: 48
| Rear wheel bearing removal?
Hi guys
300gd
Leaky seal right rear shaft
Got the shaft out.
Ordered replacement bearing and seal kit.
Got the big nut off the shaft that holds bearing on
How does the bearing come off?
Do I need a puller or just hammer it off with a drift punch?
Thanks
Sean |
|
| |
|
DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Email or PM your VIN to me, and I'll see if I can find the procedure in the WIS. |
|
| |
|
DUTCH
Administrator Doppelgänger
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: US, GA, Atlanta
Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter
Posts: 9963
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Unfortunately, there are no "how to's" in the WIS. Just some tightening torques and a long list of special tools. Sorry.
Check with HIpine. He might have a factory workshop manual. |
|
| |
|
PNZWGN
Member
Date registered: Feb 2014
Location: Roanoke, VA
Vehicle(s): 1984 300GD, 2008 E350, 2012 X5 M Sport
Posts: 9
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Sean-
I have an '84 300GD and will finish this exact service tomorrow. You need to press off the bearing. Or I guess you could use a bearing puller but I have no experience with that.
I took my axles to the local garage I use that has a press. Pressed off the old bearings and then I had the housing that secures everything sand blasted and painted. Put the new seal/bearing kits on yesterday and my garage pressed them right in. I put the drum brake backing plate on tonight (after freshly blasting and powder coating) and will bolt the axles back up tomorrow. That's all there is to it.
95% sure it's 300nm on the bearing lock rings.
I would be leary of hammering the bearing off (or on) but that is just me. Good luck! |
|
| |
|
AirheadNut
Member
Date registered: Nov 2016
Location: Montana
Vehicle(s): 1988 280GE SWB
Posts: 31
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
I am looking at replacing both rear wheel bearings in my 1988 280GE. I read in the manual that the bearings are held on by heat-shrunk retainer rings, which must be heated to 500-550 C and then put on the half-shaft. Is this as simple as heating the shrink ring with a torch, and then fitting to the shaft? This sounds somewhat different to what I am reading here, are there differences in wheel bearing setups for different years? |
|
| |
|
kerry460
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: tasmania australia
Vehicle(s): 1984 300GD LWB WAGEN
Posts: 611
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
G,,day
my memory says 500 newton metres tprque for bearing retainer nut .
kerry |
|
| |
|
AirheadNut
Member
Date registered: Nov 2016
Location: Montana
Vehicle(s): 1988 280GE SWB
Posts: 31
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Pardon my ignorance, but which bearing retainer nut is that? All of the procedures and diagrams I have seen have a shrink ring to hold the bearing on the shaft rather than a nut. Is this the correct procedure, or am I on the wrong track? https://www.dropbox.com/s/sru4u735ngw17mv/rear%20axle%20removal.pdf?dl=0
Edited by AirheadNut 7/30/2017 6:46 PM
|
|
| |
|
kerry460
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: tasmania australia
Vehicle(s): 1984 300GD LWB WAGEN
Posts: 611
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
my 1984 uses a nut as a retainer for the bearing .
i believe the very first models had the shrink ring retainer
my workshop manual states 500 Nm torque
kerry |
|
| |
|
AirheadNut
Member
Date registered: Nov 2016
Location: Montana
Vehicle(s): 1988 280GE SWB
Posts: 31
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Thanks for the info! That is what I was hoping to find out, I was not looking forward to having to mess with a shrink ring. |
|
| |
|
hipine
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Dare I ask why you're going after the wheel bearing? Was the radial play out of spec? My G has 475,000 miles on the original rear bearings and seals. The only time a leak developed was when the rear diff vent became plugged. That was an easy fix and the leak stopped instantly. It's maybe a little late for you now for me to ask these questions. But to anyone following after, check the easy stuff first.
-Dave G. |
|
| |
|
hipine
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
No torch. Put it in the oven and bring it to about 350F. That'll be plenty to let it drop into place. Torch is too un-even and labor intensive. The shrink fits in the workshop manual always specify an oven.
-Dave G. |
|
| |
|
hipine
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
The spare parts system will tell you for sure. In there it will specify "...up to axle ######" and "....after axle ######" telling you what to expect to find on your vehicle. I just can't see a shrink ring requiring a "blood red" temperature level for a shrink fit. I'd try it with a lower temp. If it doesn't work that way, you'll need a furnace to get a good heat on it without potentially damaging it by localized differences. Find a local blade-smith to heat it for you.
-Dave G. |
|
| |
|
AirheadNut
Member
Date registered: Nov 2016
Location: Montana
Vehicle(s): 1988 280GE SWB
Posts: 31
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Thanks for the input! I decided to pull one side apart to check what setup I had, and was relieved to find a big retainer nut rather than a shrink ring. Now I just have to make a tool!  The reason I am going after the bearings is because there was a big diff fluid leak from both sides of the axle, and when I pulled the driver side apart there was significant radial and axial play. Haven't checked the passenger side yet. I already have parts in transit from Germany at this point, so there is little point to not replacing them. As far as the diff vent, how would I go about checking if that is plugged? From what I can see it travels up into the engine bay; would I disconnect it at the diff and see if I can blow through it? Where would it most likely be plugged? Also, are the bearings lubricated by grease or diff oil? I don't see any axle wipe seal inboard of the bearing nut, just an o-ring and a paper gasket on the outboard side. Thanks again for all of the help!
 (IMG_0596.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
 IMG_0596.jpg (319KB - 0 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Inkblotz
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Georgia
Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo
Posts: 3186
| Re: Rear wheel bearing removal?
RE vent: Detach it from the Diff. Blow compressed air through it. In the engine compartment on the shock tower you will find the end of the line.
I had the same issue with mine with some leaking going on. Turns out the vent line was plugged. So when the the diff got hot there was no exit for the pressure. Path of least resistance it went out the seals.
I could not unplug it so I ran a new plastic vent line and leaking stopped. |
|
| |
|
hipine
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: US, CO, Bailey
Vehicle(s): 460 1980 280GE w. 617A
| RE: Rear wheel bearing removal?
Per your observation of seals etc, the bearings are lubed by diff oil. So if somebody let the oil level in the diff get low for a long time, the bearings could be starved and wear prematurely. Good news is once you replace them, and keep the oil level right, they'll last a half million miles plus. 
Good luck!!!
-Dave G. |
|
| |
