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Mark G
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA
Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT
| Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
In a related issued to my aforementioned Break issues, had the rear left tire off this weekend in order to replace one of those old fabric covered fuel lines. Was going to inspect the rear breaks (and show my son) but found the retaining screw that holds the drum on to be stripped out. Any hand tool I tried to use just made it worse. Any tricks out there to get it out? Or am I going to have to drill it and try to use a removal bit. I can only assume the other side will be similar.
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G-AMG
G-Class DIY Host
Date registered: May 2006
Location: South Texas
Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350
| RE: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
I had the same problem.
Have you tried an "Impact Screw Diver??"
Get youself some good penetrating oil (I like MicroMist) repeatedly soak over a day or two, then have at it with the impact screwdriver (when you hammer the device, it drives the phillips bit into the screw, while at the same time rotating counterclockwise, slightly, using up to 200 Nm rotational power (if I remember correctly!!).
Good luck. |
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sjtymko
G-Class Photo Host
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Canada, AB, Sherwood Park (Edmonton)
Vehicle(s): 2002 G500, 2009 B200
Posts: 511
| RE: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
I had the same problem. The oil and the impact driver worked a charm. Mine was pretty stripped out as well. Steve |
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mortinson
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Madrid, España
Vehicle(s): '98 G300TD LWB, '98 E300TD Saloon
Posts: 1355
| RE: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
Ditto. It's the only way that I know of. |
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roughneck
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: UK, Germany & USA
Vehicle(s): 270 cdi.300 GD 300 GE.lwb 300 GE.swb. Disco 2
Posts: 4398
| RE: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
Soak it in a little kerosene, thats whats in most Pen oils, then a good whak with a impact driver ussualy does the trick, Failing that drill the head off, its counter sunk, then after the drum is off remove the stub with mole grips, I never replace them they are only a locating screw, the lug bolts hold the drum on. |
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Mark G
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA
Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT
| RE: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
Thanks everyone. Looks like it's time to get an Impact Driver. Aways wanted to put one in the tool box anyway. |
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MazWest
Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Benelux
Vehicle(s): E220T, 250GD LWB Wolf
Posts: 180
| RE: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
You can use a 5" steel chisel and a hammer. Works great! Then just leave it out. The wheel holds everything together just fine when you torque the wheel nuts properly. |
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Jonathan Joseph
Expert
Date registered: Oct 2006
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Vehicle(s): 2004 G55
Posts: 1538
| RE: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
Sorry this is a little late you're probably done by now. Certainly the inpact screwdriver is the way to go but if the philips socket is stripped,
us a dremel tool or die grinder with a cutting disc and grind a large slot where the philips socket used to be and then use the impact with the largest slotted bit you can find. I've done this countless times and almost never needed to resort to completely drilling the head off. I concur leave the screw out when you're done, more trouble than it's worth.
Jonathan |
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dai
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Vehicle(s): 300GD 300TD BMW R100RS Landini 80F
Posts: 2110
| Re: Rear Break Drum Screw – 460
If you want to replace it, get the threaded part out and chase the threads with a tap. Coat the new threads with anti-seeze and install it. I use that on the lug bolt threads as well. The drum goes through big temperature changes. I've never had a problem with mine but I always use anti-seeze. Two good penatrating oils to free very stuck things are: PB Blaster and Zep "Twister". Spray it on and tap the part with hammer. Leave it alone for a while and respray it. Do not get that stuff on your skin.
-Dai |
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