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thairish
Date registered: Jun 2006
Location: hk/th
Vehicle(s): 461: 230ge/swb & g300cdi/lwb
| Re: headliner
thanks for the feedback james. everything in my interior is black, so i don't have the color matching problem that you had. really like your idea of adding a seam to the concaved corner because that is exactly where mine came unglued, but in the middle instead of the the bottom. anyway, eurotruck says they can get me entire replacements panels so i will probably be going that route to ensure everything matches. i'll also have my old ones redone with the seam and keep them as spares.
cheers,
dd |
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kerry460
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: tasmania australia
Vehicle(s): 1984 300GD LWB WAGEN
Posts: 611
| RE: headliner
G,,day to thairish slight misunderstanding yes mine is glued to board .(my typing is very slow so i try to shorten things sometimes leads to misunderstanding) the info from burqueDOKA is correct ,once the closed cell vinyl composite comes unstuck in a concave place ,basically forget about about reglueing. edges yes maybe . yes also to needing to sew shape to material ,then the glue only needs to hold material to board with no tension . the tension (stretch in material) is the killer the board and glue want tolerate it for long . in future i will try to explain in more detail . if i can be of help please ask . hope i have been of help ,cheers kerry. |
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thairish
Date registered: Jun 2006
Location: hk/th
Vehicle(s): 461: 230ge/swb & g300cdi/lwb
| Re: headliner
kerry: no worries -- gotcha. and yes, your feedback is much appreciated and helpful. if any further trimmer questions, then i/we now know whom to turn to. hope to visit you down in taz someday soon if the opportunity presents itself.
cheers,
dd |
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gwagen460swb
Extreme Veteran
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle(s): 280GE SWB, Toyota Highlander, BMW530i, RR HSE
Posts: 513
| Re: headliner
I have the black vinyl headliner. When I first bought my G, the rear part of the vinyl was sagging. And the end of the vinyl by the rear double doors had developed a gap. The sagging was a blessing in disguise. Since I have a sunroof and the area behind the sunroof was uneven, I wanted to make it look flush and even. Here are the steps:
1. I measured some foamboard and inserted it into the rear area.
2. I used some 3M spray adhesive to adhere between the vinyl and the board as well as the board to the inside metal roof.
3. I sprayed adhesive to the end over the double door area.
4. I applied some duct tape over the sprayed adhesive area over the double doors.
5. I found the matching color black vinyl at Hancock Fabrics on sale for $1.00 per square yard!
6. I straightened out a metal hanger which will serve as a support rib in the rear to close off the opening.
7. I cut out a 4 inch wide x roughly 3 ft long piece of black vinyl and wrapped it around the hanger forming a 2-inch wide supporting piece.
8. I sprayed (generously) adhesive inside the vinyl fold I made.
9. After allowing the rib to dry after about an hour, I bent the rib (which has the straightened metal hanger inside) slightly.
10. I inserted the rib at the end of headliner over double doors to make sure the bend was good enough to hold up the end of headliner.
11. I sprayed adhesive on the side of rib that would adhere to headliner.
12. I reinserted the rib and tucked the excess on each side neatly above my speaker columns.
With regards to the vinyl paneling on my doors, my issue dealt with the vinyl coming off the wooden forms on my doors. I bought the brass metal thumb tacks from Wal-Mart.
1. I refolded the vinyl back on the wood panel.
2. I clipped the sharp pointed tips off the tacks because I knew the tack would be too long. And the tack would stick out on the panel.
3. Holding the vinyl to the wooden form in place, I carefully placed a thumb tack at the desired location on the inside vinyl part I was holding to the form.
4. I pressed on the tack a little to allow the tack to somewhat stay in place.
5. I carefully released the tack-vinyl-form assembly and allowed the resistance to force rest back on the metal door part. Please note: The tack-vinyl-form assembly is on the inside.
6. Then I took a swing with the hammer and the panel was fixed.
7. I repeated the process for other desired locations. |
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burqueDOKA
Elite Veteran
Date registered: Jul 2006
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Vehicle(s): 1550L37Doka, 404 ROCKMOG, '00 G500
Posts: 622
| RE: headliner
Incase anyone is interested, here is a photo of the rear corner panel on my 280. You can see how the problem of the concave corner lifting can be dealt with.
 (g interior.jpg)
Attachments
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 g interior.jpg (167KB - 3 downloads)
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jcaine
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| RE: headliner
I just had my whole interior re-done including covering the worn, stained, pretty horrid looking headliner with a nice plain black headliner fabric... looks great... insulated the roof with 3/8 inch foil backed foam while they were at it...cost about $450... I priced a new headliner prior to doing it and it was like $1250 and that was for a civillian model... my G is a military model with the gun locker and port hole so I opted for recovering....
I'm picking it up tomorrow so I'll send some pics if anyone is interested... |
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hus55
Expert
Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: north cyprus,lapta.
Vehicle(s): 300GDS, G300 LONG,300GDT CLK55 AMG CAB.
Posts: 2230
| RE: headliner
burqueDOKA,thats one smart move you've done with that panel  what part of the states are you from?
there must be something in the water you drink mate!
i have the same issue with my cab in n-cyprus cos of the heat. |
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Maxwell Smart
Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
| RE: headliner
jcaine - 5/1/2007 6:36 AM
cost about $450...
I'm picking it up tomorrow so I'll send some pics if anyone is interested...
I'm being told about $1200 to replace the headliner.  Might have to give it a go myself - just worried about the time it will take to do.
Do post pics - would love to see. |
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