| FAQ | Member List | Albums | Today's Posts | Search  |
| Welcome Guest. ( logon | register ) | |||||
| ||||||
|
| Topic Tools | Message Format |
| ||
| clicking sound from wheel? I have the strange clicking sound at very low mph like 1-3 mph when turning. It sounds like its coming from my drivers front wheel, and no there are no rocks in the tread  I already checked that. Strange thing is it doesn't do it all the time. maybe once or twice a day then skip a few days then its back. Also it started this after my front diff did not disengage. I pushed the front locker button and the yellow light went out. However the red light stayed on even after all the other diff's where unlocked. I tried turning on and off the car also High and low range... even backed up. this stayed lit for about a mile on gravel roads and didn't turn off until I hit asphalt. When I turned left to get on the main road it made a nasty POP sound when it went free. This was about two month's ago... I have no problems, or lights, or leaks and the lockers still work locking and unlocking fine, So any suggestion on what to check or where to look for a problem? | ||
| ||
| ||
| Tjærand Extreme Veteran Date registered: Oct 2006 Location: Nøtterøy, Norway Vehicle(s): 1996 G320 Posts: 403  | ||
| ||
| ||
| 4x4abc Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico Vehicle(s): 02 G500  | RE: clicking sound from wheel? Kerr, the popping sound you heard was the locker. When it was about to unlock (very close to the 45 degree edges) it experienced different wheel speed (you went into a turn) and was forced open by the 45 degree angles slide on each other. No harm from that. Image below. Now, a locker not readily unlocking after the hydraulic pressure is off can mean a couple of different things: A) return spring broken B) locker sleeve not sliding freely (Polyamide ring [#7] damaged - cheap fix, or debris in axle housing - bad news, or axle housing bent - really bad news). C) tire diameter left and right unequal (uneven use or unequal pressure) The only mechanical support you can offer a locker that does not want to unlock is to drive as straight as possible (best with hands off the steering for a while) - the locker needs absolute equal rpm left and right to unlock. Turning left and right makes the stuck worse and shifting to low range has no influence. Reversing usually does not help either as you are going from one binding direction into the nex binding set up. As to the clicking - my wild guess would be CV or wheel bearing going bad (teeth.jpg) Attachments ----------------  teeth.jpg (664KB - 5 downloads) | |
| ||
| ||
| RE: clicking sound from wheel? Thanks guys. Whats strange about the day the front didnt unlock is i drove straight for probably 1500-2000 feet then backed up probably 1000 feet of that to see if the light would go off. ( that old GM trick lol... my blazer you had to back up or it would not come out of 4x4) Then i slowley turned the wheel back and forth on my way to the road thinking it would free up and never did. Apparently they axles and diffs have major gears becuase that pop sounded worse than when i blew up my 14 bolt in a old camaro  My lockers work fine.. There just real slow. I think dutch said i need to drain the pump? It can take up to 2 minutes for them to lock. The center usually locks with 30 seconds but the rear and the front take for ever. Ive never had to replace wheel bearings or CV's so i guess its about time at 74,890 miles? Actully in terms of non electrical stuff ive only had 2 steering stabilizers and one set of pads... that i know of for sure. Ill look tonight at the cv's and see what they look like. Thanks again for the info! | ||
| ||
| ||
| 4x4abc Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico Vehicle(s): 02 G500 | RE: clicking sound from wheel? here is the promised image (originally I had it set to CMYK and that does not work). Kerr, your lockers are not slow. All lockers need a rotational difference between both sides in order to engage. The G lockers has 5 big teeth - so you'll need a rotational difference of 36 degrees for them to engage. ARB lockers have 42 teeth and they need only a difference of 4 degrees to engage. So, as long as you drive straight with almost no rotational difference betrween left and right wheels the lockers will not engage at all. Center is a different story - there is almost alway a rotational difference between front and rear and the locker engages faster. There is almost always a difference of rpm between front and rear because almost never is the weight and tire pressure front and rear absolute equal - that leads to different rpm. This underlines why it is so important neither to lock the center (463) on dry pavement nor use the part time system of the 460. The always present rpm differences front to rear can cause severe damage: http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/driveline-bind.html (teeth.jpg) Attachments ---------------- teeth.jpg (74KB - 4 downloads) | |
| ||
| ||
| ||
| ||
| -UG- Extreme Veteran Date registered: Jun 2006 Location: Finland Vehicle(s): GD300, S350 CDI Posts: 446 | ||
| ||
| ||
| DUTCH Administrator Doppelgänger Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: US, GA, Atlanta Vehicle(s): 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI,2018 Sprinter Posts: 9963 | ||
| ||
| ||
| 4x4abc Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico Vehicle(s): 02 G500 | Re: clicking sound from wheel? Kerr, the CV boot is not visible from the outside - it sits inside the svivel ball. You'll have to take the entire hub/wheel bearing assembly apart o get to the CV joints. Very messy! (CV-boot.jpg) Attachments ---------------- CV-boot.jpg (109KB - 4 downloads) | |
| ||
| ||
| ||
|
