Welcome Guest. ( logon | register )   
FAQ Member List Albums Today's Posts Search

PointedThree :  Vans, Trucks, SUVs and Other Forums : G-Class : Paint on 1997 290GD... not 2 components???????

Page 1 of 1 1
Paint on 1997 290GD... not 2 components???????
Topic Tools Message Format
Author
Posted 4/28/2007 5:25 AM
Kano383

Date registered: Dec 1899
Location:
Vehicle(s):
Paint on 1997 290GD... not 2 components???????

Busy painting my G, and while at it I noticed with astonishment that the original paint washes off with thinner. Meaning that it's not a 2 components paint, as I'd assume would have been used on all cars built in the last 30 years.

Anybody knows which paint they used then?

And, more important, does anyone know if I need to prime the whole car with an isolating primer such as Sikkens 3+1 or similar, before to apply a 2 components paint?

I'd rather only prime the areas where I've gone to the steel, or applied putty/body filler, as the final paint is the same white as the original, but I know that if you spray 2 components paint directly over some nitro or acryl paints, you end up with ugly cracks in a matter of months.

Thanks!


Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
#71909
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Author
Posted 4/28/2007 8:17 AM
Inkblotz
Expert




Date registered: Apr 2006
Location: Georgia
Vehicle(s): 90 300GD "Thundering Turtle II", w/ 603A turbo
Posts: 3186
2000
RE: Paint on 1997 290GD... not 2 components???????

Mine is an 83 I don't know if yours used the clearcoat paint process but...
I recieved detailed instruction from the local Sherwin Williams auto paint store.
To paint my side panels after welding in new ones:
1. I thoroughly went over the entire area with paint thinner (if you miss any of the existing paint/clearcoat in this process you will have orange peel in that area)
2. On the raw exposed metal I applied Por 15 then sprayed that with a primer (this was a bit excessive on my part but i was determined to stop any chance of rust)
3. On the existing painted surfaces the paint thinner acted as my primary prep and a bit of #1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
4. After mixing the 2 components I sprayed on the basecoat 2-3 coats with 20 minute drying intervals.
5. Then I mixed and applied 2 coats of the Clearcoat using the same 20min intervals
6. I let it cure for 24 hours before driving.

Check this site out for an overview scroll down to THE HEART of PAINTING: http://www.neilslade.com/Papers/Painting.html

A nice feature the clearcoat was that any minute scratches that you could see after painting the basecoat dissapeared when the clearcoat was applied (basically it is a liquid plastic)

Good luck
Mark

Edited by Inkblotz 4/28/2007 8:21 AM
#71920 - in reply to #71909
Top of the page Bottom of the page
« View previous thread :: View next thread »
Page 1 of 1 1
Forum Jump :
All times are EST.  The time is now 6:14:58 AM.

Execution: 0.203 seconds, 91 cached, 12 executed.