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Mark G Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT | 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit I purchased this kit and plan to take on the repair this weekend. Can anyone pass along some personal experience before I take on this job? Any input would be great. The instructions that came with are not that great. Thanks! (460 break rebuild kit.JPG) Attachments ---------------- 460 break rebuild kit.JPG (44KB - 1 downloads) | ||
#73762 | |||
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4x4abc Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico Vehicle(s): 02 G500 | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit more important question is why are you replacing it? There may be other issues that need to be addressed than just dropping new piston and seals in. | ||
#73782 - in reply to #73762 | |||
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Mark G Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit I agree.... Posted several weeks back some request for help (Break Trouble - 460) along with the symptons but not much useful responses (Nothing against anybody on this board) so had to go local to find advise. Seems this is the place to start as can't find other source of the problem. | ||
#73798 - in reply to #73782 | |||
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4x4abc Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico Vehicle(s): 02 G500 | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit so what's the brake trouble? | ||
#73819 - in reply to #73798 | |||
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460332 Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Europe Vehicle(s): | Re: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit The norwegian armed forces always change the complete master cylinder and piston when brake problems. Of course, then they know that the front pistons and seals in calipers are OK, no air in system (precise procedure), OK brakepads, disks, rear cylinders OK and rear shoes, and they know how to do the complex 4-step job of adjusting the rear brake shoes and handbrake, not to forget the load valve! | ||
#73822 - in reply to #73762 | |||
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Jonathan Joseph Expert Date registered: Oct 2006 Location: Charleston, South Carolina Vehicle(s): 2004 G55 Posts: 1538 | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Sorry isn't that a bovine artificial inseminator?? | ||
#73842 - in reply to #73762 | |||
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Mark G Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Thanks and here is my original message on the subject posted April 2. Break Trouble - 460 Seeing another post below made me think of possible similar problems with sticking pistons with the front calipers. I was away on business for 3 weeks. When I returned my son informed me while using the G on the highway he had an emergency breaking incident. No problem, the G stopped and an accident was avoided but he did mention he smoked the tires while stopping. However, now the break pedal can be pushed to the floor. There is pressure that you can hear and the pressure can be pumped up but you can still ultimately push the peddle to its full extension. I also noticed while breaking the truck pulls to the left. Quick inspection finds no obvious leaks, fluid is good condition and topped off and always change it every year, and pads have lots of life on them. Well now it’s parked and wonder if I need a new break master cylinder (its only 4-5 years old). But what about the pulling to the right? Am I looking at two problems or could it be a Master cylinder with leaky seals causing the pulling to the right? I am already checking with Steve Dempsey on new Master Cylinder but checking for feedback first before throwing parts at the truck. | ||
#73943 - in reply to #73819 | |||
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UberXY Date registered: Dec 1899 Location: Vehicle(s): | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit brake | ||
#73947 - in reply to #73762 | |||
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G-AMG G-Class DIY Host Date registered: May 2006 Location: South Texas Vehicle(s): '04 G55, '80 280GE, '99 S420, '98 E320, 2011 E350 | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Why not try the cheap and easy route first, just re-bleed the system?? Could the "emergency braking" episode caused enough heat to "vaporize" a small water droplet, causing a bubble in the system?? For 10 bucks to get new fluid, I'd sure do that first, THEN go up the $$$ chain. | ||
#73959 - in reply to #73762 | |||
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Mark G Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit It is a good thought and have no idea. But, this is something I already have done with no or little improvement. The pedal being able to be pushed to the full extension is just not right. Thanks for the suggestion.... | ||
#73962 - in reply to #73959 | |||
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fernweh Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Mark G - 5/11/2007 10:46 AM Thanks and here is my original message on the subject posted April 2. Break Trouble - 460 Seeing another post below made me think of possible similar problems with sticking pistons with the front calipers. I was away on business for 3 weeks. When I returned my son informed me while using the G on the highway he had an emergency breaking incident. No problem, the G stopped and an accident was avoided but he did mention he smoked the tires while stopping. However, now the break pedal can be pushed to the floor. There is pressure that you can hear and the pressure can be pumped up but you can still ultimately push the peddle to its full extension. I also noticed while breaking the truck pulls to the left. Quick inspection finds no obvious leaks, fluid is good condition and topped off and always change it every year, and pads have lots of life on them. Well now it’s parked and wonder if I need a new break master cylinder (its only 4-5 years old). But what about the pulling to the right? Am I looking at two problems or could it be a Master cylinder with leaky seals causing the pulling to the right? I am already checking with Steve Dempsey on new Master Cylinder but checking for feedback first before throwing parts at the truck. Hi Mark, I just rebuild my front calipers with rebuild kits from Eurotruck. It is no big deal, mostly cleaning involved. But me truck now tracks very straight when hitting the brakes - even hard! An the G-wagen was all over the road before. During the rebuild you have the option to completely change the brake fluid in your system - not a bad thing to do either. The brake master might have something to do with the pedal behavior but not anything with the G pulling to one side (in MOP) (IMG_2020.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_2020.JPG (71KB - 0 downloads) | ||
#73986 - in reply to #73943 | |||
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Titus Pullo Elite Veteran Date registered: May 2007 Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada Vehicle(s): '90 Wolf 240GD, '06 G270 CDI. Posts: 1010 | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Mark G - 5/11/2007 3:23 PM In the most cases when the pedal is able to be pushed down to the floor there is only one reason - master cilinder. There is no conection between the master cil. and pulling to one side. For pulling I have a guess - have seen it few times: sometimes when the flex hoses are old or low quality aftermarket this happens that they start acting as one way valve - by presing the pedal fluid goes towards the caliper but cant go bacwards, causing this way blocking of one brake. It is hard to be found by normal bleeding the brakes - fluid is going out normally and there is no air. Flex hoses suppose to be taken of and blown with compressed air both directions. Hope it helps a bit.The pedal being able to be pushed to the full extension is just not right. | ||
#74025 - in reply to #73962 | |||
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Mark G Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Thanks for the feedback on the Calipers. Glad to hear the process was not bad to rebuild them. What was the determination you made that you had to rebuild them. Just trying to get an idea if this is someplace I am heading. | ||
#74189 - in reply to #73986 | |||
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Mark G Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Thanks for the advise on the master cilinder. The flex hoses were replaced with original parts about 3 years ago. But that does not mean there is not a problem with them. Will have to take a close look at theses. Wonder if anybody out there has actually rebuilt the Master? There is certainly a savings in doing so. | ||
#74191 - in reply to #74025 | |||
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4x4abc Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: La Paz, Baja California, Mexico Vehicle(s): 02 G500 | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit http://www.google.com.mx/search?hl=en&q=rebuilding+brake+master&btn... | ||
#74208 - in reply to #74191 | |||
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pistonhead Member Date registered: Apr 2007 Location: Loughborough, ENGLAND, UK Vehicle(s): Nissan QX. Posts: 22 | Re: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Rebuilding the brake master cylinder is straight forward in its self. Pay attention on how and what bits come out. There should be a circlip at the end of the m/cylinder, upon removing this clip, the internal mechanism should spring out. Lay out the whole of the internals, comprising of springs, seals and pistons as it comes out and use this as a reference to re build. After cleaning the body, do not use any abrasives internally to clean. Use an aerosol brake and clutch cleaner, inspect the internal bore for scouring and excessive wear. Compare the wear and scouring as how the removed seals have been affected. If the seals are visibly sound, then it should be ok to renew your kit. Use the rubber grease provided in the kit to smear onto the new rubbers before refitting your new kit. Take note, the seals go back in the correct direction, i.e. the larger diameter of the seals to go into the bore first. Use a thin screw driver blade or a dentists pick to gently ease the rubber seal into the bore making sure you do not damage it. Once the circlip is reattached, and rebolting the m/cylinder back onto the servo, fill the brake reservoir with some brake fluid, gravity will help to bleed your m/cylinder, connect the brake pipes but do not fully tighten them. Let the fluid leak out from the brake pipes, then tighten pipe unions, do not over tighten these, you are aiming at 7 nm to 11 nm torque. Hopefully, when pressing the brake pedal a few times will give you a solid brake pedal, in which case you will not need to bleed at the wheels, other wise you will if the pedal does not firm up. To assist you in this when disconnecting the brake pipes from the m/cylinder avoid shacking the pipes too much so that the fluid from them does not leak out. Obviously, there will be some unavoidable leaks, but we want to limit that. Edited by pistonhead 5/13/2007 1:57 PM | ||
#74210 - in reply to #73762 | |||
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fernweh Date registered: Apr 2006 Location: Calabasas, CA - Centenario, BCS - Luebeck, Germany Vehicle(s): Few Mercedes-Benz, a Toyota Amphibious and a Vespa | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Mark G - 5/13/2007 9:07 AM Thanks for the feedback on the Calipers. Glad to hear the process was not bad to rebuild them. What was the determination you made that you had to rebuild them. Just trying to get an idea if this is someplace I am heading. Well Mark, when I did hit the brakes and the G went right first and then left or vis-versa, I knew there were a problem with the calipers. It was a very dangerous situation and with no doubt I knew what I had to repair. Two options - rebuild them or buy new! In my case it was $60 or $500 per side (without my labor). Luckily both my caliper were fine with just very minor corrosion on one of the eight pistons - could have been some water in the brake fluid over the years. Bleeding brake - always use new fluid, never reuse the old one..... Karl | ||
#74228 - in reply to #74189 | |||
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Mark G Date registered: Jul 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA Vehicle(s): 1985 280GE LWB AT | RE: 460 Break Master cylinder Rebuild kit Thanks for everyone's comments and help on this. Just a quick update on the pulling problem, which is now solved. It turns out the front right brakes were contaminated with lots of grease. The ball seal had been leaking which I replaced this weekend. Grease was getting into everything and the leak was more serious then I then I realized. After many cans of brake cleaner, all is working fine with the pulling. Still have the Master Cylinder to solve with the rebuild kit. Will update further after I get to it. | ||
#75133 - in reply to #73762 | |||
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